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2007 KLR 650
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seeking a pair of bright affordable LED auxiliary driving lights for my 2007 1st Gen KLR. Thanks in advance.
 

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If you want good lights and a fair price,buy these:
Link
But if you want to spend a bunch of money for the same amount of light you can buy some "name brand" lights off one of the motorcycle vendors.

Amazon search
Northpole Light LED Light Bar, 2X 18W Waterproof Cree Spot LED Light Bar Work Light, LED Off-Road Lights
 

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If you want good lights and a fair price,buy these:
Link
But if you want to spend a bunch of money for the same amount of light you can buy some "name brand" lights off one of the motorcycle vendors.
Linky no worky; at least, on my antique hand-crank computer! :)
 

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Amazon search $14.9 a set. You'll love them.
Northpole Light LED Light Bar, 2X 18W Waterproof Cree Spot LED Light Bar Work Light, LED Off-Road Lights
 

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2007 KLR 650
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Toney, these will work great.

Should I splice these in with a relay too?
 

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Thank you Toney, these will work great.

Should I splice these in with a relay too?
I'd use a relay and a fuse. A relay and a inline fuse is a couple of bucks. Replacing a wiring harness would really suck chit and a toasted KLR would be worse than that. If electrical is done right the first time, it last forever without any issues. Going around a corner in the dark would really suck if the lights ALL failed.

I've had 4 sets of those cree lights over the years. 3 bikes and a boat. One light went bad once but I had a spare set in the garage to replace it. For that price you can buy an extra set to have on hand just leave an extra inch or so of wire when you install them. I'm not sure a 500 dollar set will last any longer. Those Cree lights are killer bright.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Adding a relay adds another point of failure and additional wiring with more points of failure. These are 18w per light, which is about 1.3 Amps or 2.6 amps total. A toggle switch can easily handle that current. In KLR tradition, keep it simple. If you were adding more than, say 60 watts (4.5 amps) then I’d consider a relay.

Take a wire from the battery, with a fuse under the seat, to a switch on the dash, to the lights, to ground. Simple.
 

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Adding a relay adds another point of failure and additional wiring with more points of failure. These are 18w per light, which is about 1.3 Amps or 2.6 amps total. A toggle switch can easily handle that current. In KLR tradition, keep it simple. If you were adding more than, say 60 watts (4.5 amps) then I’d consider a relay.

Take a wire from the battery, with a fuse under the seat, to a switch on the dash, to the lights, to ground. Simple.
If you do it that way you're going to have two switches that you have to switch to go from high to low beam. The stock one and the new one. Agreed LED's take little power to run, until they short or fail in some way that is. To each their own but I always use relays and let the factory switch control the lights so the High low switch would operate the lights without any other switches. Sometime I add a switch so I can kill the new lights in case some cop gets a wild hair up their ass. If you use relays there's also no wiring that turns with the forks. A point of failure for sure. I worked on cars for 40+ years and I don't think I have seen but a few of the Bosch or Hella type relays go bad and if they failed, it was due to bad wiring. As cheap as the relays are, I'd try a new one but I don't really recall that fixing the whole issue. They're pretty bulletproof. Some might say I overkill wiring but nothing I install ever fails.
 

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Relays are for higher power draws, I have 2 on my bike with no relay a fuse and a 20 amp sealed toggle switch, your wiring will be protected by the fuse not the relay. Run a 5 to 10 amp fuse I run a 5 for extra protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just ordered the Amazon Northpole 18w ones. Thank you EV1 for you suggestions and insights.

Kent
 

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I have used the nilite ones from amazon for $20 that are so damn bright they will blind you, of all my bikes I’ve ordered at least 7 pairs including the yellow lens ones and none have ever failed, I even have them on my pontoon boat, god bless amazon!
 

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Don’t use the shitty jns mount you will have to modify it for full cock steering which in my case meant bending and cutting it, if I had to do it over I would have made my own mount instead of getting lazy and buying that crap.
28534
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you want good lights and a fair price,buy these:
Link
But if you want to spend a bunch of money for the same amount of light you can buy some "name brand" lights off one of the motorcycle vendors.

Amazon search
Northpole Light LED Light Bar, 2X 18W Waterproof Cree Spot LED Light Bar Work Light, LED Off-Road Lights
Love your Pink Floyd quote reference...
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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If you do it that way you're going to have two switches that you have to switch to go from high to low beam. The stock one and the new one. Agreed LED's take little power to run, until they short or fail in some way that is. To each their own but I always use relays and let the factory switch control the lights so the High low switch would operate the lights without any other switches. Sometime I add a switch so I can kill the new lights in case some cop gets a wild hair up their ass. If you use relays there's also no wiring that turns with the forks. A point of failure for sure. I worked on cars for 40+ years and I don't think I have seen but a few of the Bosch or Hella type relays go bad and if they failed, it was due to bad wiring. As cheap as the relays are, I'd try a new one but I don't really recall that fixing the whole issue. They're pretty bulletproof. Some might say I overkill wiring but nothing I install ever fails.
I don’t think it’s a good idea to have the driving lights wired to the low beams. High beam, maybe. But I think it’s safer to be able to turn them on and off independently. So, just one switch on the dash foe the driving lights.
 
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