[Damocles]

All the following info is permanently posted on the Internet and on this website:

KLR650 wiring-diagram.pdf - Google Drive

Handy spec sheet for Gen 1 | Kawasaki KLR Forum

As to "worthless" Kawasaki service manuals, I think the KLR600 service manual is the, "base" manual, while a KLR650 supplementary manual exists. The Clymer manual stands alone (for the generation covered)..

All this said, experienced KLR 650-savvy technicians remain employed at Kawasaki dealerships, and at some independent motorcycle repair shops. At the price you paid for the bike, maybe you can afford to pay for some flat-rate or shop hours. Just sayin'. Randomly throwing money at the bike by purchasing replacement parts, when existing parts remain of unknown functionality might become expensive, with little chance of solving actual causative maintenance problems.

Not to put too fine a point on things, KLR650s of your vintage (Generation 1) have two independent electrical circuits: Battery power circuit (from three stator power coils) and ignition power circuit (from two exciter stator coils). Do not expect to find battery voltage (12 volts DC) to the ignition coil. Separate from these stator AC sources, the pickup coil triggers the CDI capacitor discharge across ignition coil primary windings, creating a spark from the ignition coil secondary windings.

You'll need spark, but Starting Fluid offers a guaranteed combustible mixture, if carburetion and/or fuel delivery systems are suspect.

 

[Damocles]

What are you using for a battery when you are cranking the bike over? Needs to be a good battery to fire a bike that gets spark from the CDI. Yamaha Seca and Maxims had the same issue with low battery voltage not making the CDI deliver spark.

Unfamiliar with Secas and Maxims, but Generation 1 KLR ignitions have nothing in common with the battery circuit. Yet, a healthy battery must be available to produce sufficient cranking rpm to create sufficient AC voltage to precipitate a spark starting the engine. These bikes will run without a battery at all, but without a robust battery to crank the engine, a sufficiently vigorous bump-start or tow is necessary.

 

[Damocles]

Compression and fuel mixture is evident due to the mist blast coming out of the spark plug hole. No spark is evident. After I sobered up, I went back out and checked primary coil winding ohms again and we are at .5 ohms on the pand and no readings on the secondary. According to the POS manual it’s supposed to have .15 to .21 on the primary & 3.8 to 5.8 on the secondary. So, toasted coil is definitely on the menu

I am getting 1ohm accross the stator, which is maxed out on the limit from .3 to 1. So, I’m going to change it out. moot point.

A mist blast coming from the spark plug hole does not necessarily indicate a COMBUSTIBLE mixture. Without a favorable air/fuel mixture, combustion may not occur. Starting Fluid remains combustible, regardless of the carburetor's ability to atomize gasoline and mix it with air volume supporting combustion.

All the other parts on it are older than crap, and they are dirt cheap, so why nit just replace them for insurance?

Nothing, "wrong," with your procedure. Replacing high-durability, high-reliability parts, without failure diagnosis, remains your choice. Good luck on finding your problem by this random substitution method.

 

[Damocles]

Anything new to report on this project?

would like to see a response, but . . . from historical precedence, long odds against it. Yet, always welcome!

The TITLE of this thread mentions, "No Voltage To Coil." Normal. No voltage to ignition coil on static (not running) pre-2008 (Generation 1) engines. Ignition coils on this vintage of machines act mainly as TRANSFORMERS, conveying a pulse from the CDI box ultimately to the spark plug. Ignition coils on later bikes function essentially as INDUCTORS; the latter components need static voltage to function, saturating inductive cores, responsible for spark creation when consequent electromagnetic field collapses. Or something!