Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

9 Months In... Terrible Build Quality

17K views 124 replies 35 participants last post by  pdwestman  
#1 · (Edited)
I know I am likely to be scolded by the loyalists for this, but I want to attempt to be fair and balanced in giving a voice to the highs and lows of this KLR so far. I know that what I have done / had to do with my KLR is nothing compared to some, and this is not meant to be a write up of modifications for fun, but a write up of the maintenance the KLR has required through one season.

2022 KLR Adventure purchased new in July of 2022 with 1 mile on the odometer. Current mileage is 4500. Bike is stored in a climate controlled garage.

In this brief time of ownership I done all work myself with the exception of mounting two tires on rims.
List of work:
3 oil changes at 500 miles, 1500 miles, and 3500 mile.
2 oil filter changes at 500 miles, 1500 mile.
1 air filter change at 1500 miles, original was very dirty.
Added EE skid plate.
Added Oxford heated grips.
Clutch bypass modification.
Replaced shift lever due to inability to shift bike while wearing boots.
3 bolts missing (presumed rattled away).
New tires needed/installed at about 1500 miles.
New rear tire needed again at current mileage.
Chain Failure (broken link) at current mileage.
Side Stand Failure (loose to the point of moving to the bikes left when extended, resulting in eventual failure to hold the bike up) at current mileage.
Fuel pump - not currently on recall list, yet the pump continues to sound worse and worse with each startup.
Needs a new battery currently.
Modifications to fairings to address squeeks (throughout ownership).

I have owned many bikes over the years, most of them bought slightly used, and have never experienced a bike that is this needy, or has had as many failure points within the first year of it's life. The component quality on this bike is surprisingly bad when compared to other manufacturer's bikes I have bought new, to include Honda, Yamaha, and BMW.

Now, the KLR happens to be the most comfortable bike I own currently. I really enjoy the comfort of it's ergonomics and the responsiveness of it's handling. I also have very much enjoyed taking it off-pavement and venturing further and further into the woods with it. For that purpose, the KLR is superb. It is the bike I take when I want to get lost and be alone. It has a wonderfully relaxed character to it that is full of confidence when you are on a trail, even if the build quality is anything but confidence. If it wasn't for these superb riding characteristics, I would be selling the bike right now (with a new chain and side stand of course lol).

But because the KLR is so good to ride slow and off-pavement, I suppose I will continue to fix the damn thing and look into purchasing the extended warranty for when the engine decides to eat itself due to not doing the doohicky, or when the piston decides to warp due to not doing the thermobob. What a terribly built bike. Why does it have to be so good to ride!
 
#112 ·
I wouldn't say yes to that. They only make the last stage of assembly. They could actually assist in destroying the final product, especially if the consumer doesn't catch a screw up on their part. It's still the same product being offered for sale minus the occasional bad component ( fuel pump ! ). I went into the purchase of my 22 knowing that there were POTENTIAL shortcomings. The motor is still stock (no doohicky or tbob upgrades) and no ill effects from that choice so far. Broken in per the manual and a few hundred miles. At almost 14k still no noticeable oil usage and that's with a 147 mile highway commute at 65-70 mph. It's used and never abused. Oil changes 3000-3500. Have only added side cases and a heat controller for my gloves. Couldn't be happier. Suits my wants and needs. Next guy says the bikes a turd. We all have our own unique perspective on the same subject.
 
#113 ·
At almost 14k still no noticeable oil usage and that's with a 147 mile highway commute at 65-70 mph.
Nice to see a "control group" for the ThermBob. As I said one of the ThermoBob discussions, I've had a Gen 1 with pretty bad oil consumption, a Gen 2 with moderate oil consumption and a Gen 3 (only one with ThermoBob) and no oil consumption. I gave credit to the ThermoBob based on that. Your experience refutes that.
 
#115 ·
ThermoBob "corrects" the Kawasaki way of cooling engines. Which BTW, is the same across the board on their bikes. Ok, maybe not all their bikes, but it is the same on the Versys 650, and I imagine the 1000, 400, etc. Maybe not on their H2 models....none of those bikes have oil burning issues. Nevertheless, I still got a ThermoBob to get the damn operating temps up in cold weather, slow to moderate speed, urban riding. Under those conditions, it takes forever for the engine to reach full operating temp. It's only an issue in cold weather. My fuel economy is noticeably better when engine runs consistently at full operating temp.
 
#122 ·
The Gen (3) KLR I know little about the fuel injection system, the new clean air system, CA. Emissions system, how it all restricts the engine performance and reliability…
It's a basic EFI setup, so it's added an ECU, O2 sensor, and fuel pump as additional components vs a carb bike. The CA bikes have the same charcoal canister system to prevent the fuel tank venting to atmosphere, that's been on Cali bikes for decades (the venerable XR650L has it as well, for example, and I'd assume older Cali KLRs do as well). It does not effect reliability other than just adding more stuff to the bike, and does not effect performance other than adding a pound or two. The emissions on the Gen 3 consist of... a catalytic converter in the muffler - which some Gen 2s had already - and running lean - which even carb bikes do from factory. It makes the same power as a Gen 1 or Gen 2 bike, and gets the same mpgs. The only real performance drop on Gen 3s is the fact that they're heavier, so the power-to-weight ratio is a bit worse.
I have had two friends that had DR’s
reliability was terrible.
Do you know what specific things broke?
 
#125 ·
And, being able to bump start a bike has saved my ass a million times, but that isn't an option anymore.
Again, a very slow crank. I ended up coasting it down a slight hill on monitor pass and bump-started it. Fired right up!
Sooo…even if there’s a marginal amount of battery juice, your gen 3 “should” bump start.
I was going to say basically the same thing. But I will add, or two younger riding buddies to push start it.

Might need to keep the rpm's up to around 2000rpm if the battery is FLAT, rather than attempting to let it idle.