[Carpediem]

glad you're ok. I had a get-off that affected forks as you described. I loosened all bolts on the triple and everything was able to be put back in place. Hopefully that will work for you.

my health insurance covered my ER stuff, at least most of it. I'm still making payments on that. my big surprise was the ambulance ride. big bucks for a 10 minute ride. :-o

I got most of ambulance covered by the fact that i crashed on dirt doing dirt bike stuff but i did not claim anything on motorcycle. I told my health insurance it was a dirt bike accident. Went from 1300 for a 10 min ambulance ride to 300 my cost.

 

[GeorgeZ]

So what is the fix for the foot peg? It looks like one bolt is sheard in place so an extractor for that, and the other pulled out the threads on the bike. ( the one it was hanging by was intact but bent, however it had the threads from the bike side still stuck to end when I removed it, So assuming it needs to be retapped at minimun, and I heard that it is a problamatic area? what is my best course of action there?
I just watched a video where they just tapped it up a size and no other change? That sound safe?

 

[SirMarksAllot]

So what is the fix for the foot peg? It looks like one bolt is sheard in place so an extractor for that, and the other pulled out the threads on the bike. ( the one it was hanging by was intact but bent, however it had the threads from the bike side still stuck to end when I removed it, So assuming it needs to be retapped at minimun, and I heard that it is a problamatic area? what is my best course of action there?
I just watched a video where they just tapped it up a size and no other change? That sound safe?

Here’s one way, it’s an article regarding repair methods

Post Page

www.souperdoo.com

 

[GeorgeZ]

Here’s one way, it’s an article regarding repair methods

Post Page

www.souperdoo.com

Whelp, thats a bit out of my equipement / skill level. I have stick welded a few plates ~9 years ago in a class for a few weeks lol. Doubt anything I did would be safe. Is a helicoil kit safe for this application? I am paranoid cause its the pegs and I am not small.

 

[SirMarksAllot]

Whelp, thats a bit out of my equipement / skill level. I have stick welded a few plates ~9 years ago in a class for a few weeks lol. Doubt anything I did would be safe. Is a helicoil kit safe for this application? I am paranoid cause its the pegs and I am not small.

Because there are actual nuts welded on the back side, and it’s not a threaded steel plate, I would NOT trust helicoil, it would leave very little material of the nuts intact. If you have a drill, drill it out per the instructions and get a welding shop to do the welding. Guys that have done it before said it’s usually about $100. Peace of mind would be worth that IMHO. Just my opinion, YMMV.

 

[GeorgeZ]

ya, will skip helicoil then. hopefully can find a competent shop here for welding.

Is that the pretty much the best option for repair, Like if I am gonna pay someone to do something, is there a next level or better options?

 

[SirMarksAllot]

ya, will skip helicoil then. hopefully can find a competent shop here for welding.

Is that the pretty much the best option for repair, Like if I am gonna pay someone to do something, is there a next level or better options?

You can take it to the bank if Souperdoo recommends it. He is an admin on here and his name is Tom Schmitz, and he’s never done ANYTHING to a KLR that wasn’t the absolute best way to do it. He attributes the repair method to another guru on here as well, PD Westman. I wouldn’t do it any other way if I’m doing it.

 

[Motogeezer]

I'm wondering if a cheap and dirty approach of just drilling out the holes and putting lock nuts on the back side would work along with longer bolts. Slightly less convenient for removing pegs, but how often do you do that?

I'm also assuming there's room for nuts on the back side.

 

[DPelletier]

I'm wondering if a cheap and dirty approach of just drilling out the holes and putting lock nuts on the back side would work along with longer bolts. Slightly less convenient for removing pegs, but how often do you do that?

I'm also assuming there's room for nuts on the back side.

It's pretty tight but I can't say it's impossible....but you'd have to zip cut the box, bend it out of the way, insert the nut and bend it back and reweld so by the time you do all that you may as well just do the "PD Westman footpeg repair" (there, I've named it!) .

I have heard of other people drilling all the way through the frame and putting long bolts with nuts on but I certainly wouldn't recommend that!

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Motogeezer]

I should have looked at your picture or my Gen 3 before making suggestions. I didn't remember the weird "box" mounting system. Apologies.

 

[GeorgeZ]

@DPelletier You mentioned the fork straightening is listed in manual? I couldn't find it in mine, did you mean clymers or something else? ( I am a bit ocd, if I have a manual to use I much rather do that then just go off a video or explanation, few years of being force feed T.O.'s in the mil has left a mark HAHA. )

Also, I happened to be looking up other stuff about front brakes and noticed ages ago in another thread you ( I believe ) stated that the gen 1 is nearly impossible if not impossible to lock up a stock front end.

With that in mind and assuming I was at least half way down on my brake lever and slowing down before I lost control ( so front tire and shocks was absolutely loaded up at least somewhat), that I maybe got effect by road hazard more than just locking the front up from me alone? I hope I am able to get the video from the berks store I crashed in front of. But I am just confused about it all, while I leave room that I may have gotten grabby on the brakes, I have been practicing emergency braking virtually every time I rode the bike. I could of sworn I was doing it all right up to the point I lost control ( it wasn't till bike started twisting out from under me, that I stopped paying attention to anything, I could of sworn up to that point I was braking correctly). Looking at my pics I think I was drifting towards the center white lines however, and maybe I hit one of them while heavily braking? Sorry, to be clear not trying to put you on spot. I am just really trying to make sense of the events and what I am remembering dosnt connect the dots. and if the gen 1 stock brakes are so bad that someone whos riding them a while feel that they are next to imposable to lock up, makes me think my brake control may not be all that was involved, specially since I have been practicing emergency braking, vs this being my first time trying to stop fast. I tend to be semi cool under this type of pressure, but I need to understand stuff to be calm, and I am not sure I understand all what happened till I hopefully see a video.

 

[Motogeezer]

it wasn't till bike started twisting out from under me,

I've been overthinking this (what retired engineers do), and I'm pretty sure you did the high side thing I described. You ending up well past the bike and your shoulder injury all lines up with this. Did you watch the other crash at 6:00 in the video I posted? That one seems closer to your crash than the one at 00:30. Heavy braking will also change the way your bike handles and trying to do evasive maneuvers at the same time can cause all kinds of issues.

 

[Motogeezer]

Also, when you have front brake maxed out at speed, you've transferred almost all the bike's weight to the front wheel. That can make the back wheel slide around.

 

[SirMarksAllot]

Also, when you have front brake maxed out at speed, you've transferred almost all the bike's weight to the front wheel. That can make the back wheel slide around.

Great point. That’s how front wheel stands are done, with all front brake, so the back tire is free to roam (things get very squirrely I’d guess) once it’s completely unloaded and/or off the ground slightly. If it swung out to the side and then got traction again, a high side would be the result for most if not all riders.

 

[GeorgeZ]

I am just pondering what all happoened, @Motogeezer Ya, I agree, I think I went over the front almost identical to that 6 min mark guy. What I am trying to figure out was the series of events. I wasn't giving any rear brake ( unless by mistake, in which case that would also explain it, maybe my foot shifted and I locked up the rear unknowingly, but I think this is not that likely, I am not that unaware of my appendages locations typically ) so if I did a stoppie and lost control cause of it, I wanna figure that out, but according to DPelletier the bike is likely not able to do a stoppie with stock brakes. ( in an OLD post I found while researching if the klr can do a stoppie cause I was low key curious if that may have been what happened or the start of one caught me off guard and I lost control etc...) So logically it is unlikely I did a stoppie since my bike is a poor example at best of a gen1 as far as performance goes.

What I think happened, is I was hard braking, drifted to right of lane while targeting fixating on the suv I was supposed to dodge and ended up going on that white stripe to right of the marks on the ground from my foot peg. I think I lost control of the braking at that point and maybe regained it a sec later and then did a highside sorta like what that video showed at the 6 min mark.

I am not discrediting the back lifting just enough to get a tiny bit squirrely, but I just think it was more likely that white stripe?

So I was asking questions to see if that made sense. Like if the bike is unlikely to lockup the front if it is already preloaded, and also unlikely to to a stoppie, what's left? Does my logic sound clean?

That said maybe the video will show up from that store and I will have remembered everything wrong LOL. ( fingers crossed they can get it, off site company handles it all.)

 

[Motogeezer]

Yeah, I'd really like to find out what happened from video if possible. I think we all would. I don't think you did a stoppie, but I think you almost did at some point. That could really alter your handling by putting almost all the bike's and your weight on the front wheel with forks very compressed and front brake maxed out. Think about the physics involved there especially as you shifted things around trying to avoid the car with no weight on rear wheel.

 

[PeteK]

If you did a stoppie, you'd know it. I still think it was a case of locking up the front wheel unexpectedly, and going down faster than you could recover. I say that based on my own, uh, "personal research"!

 

[GeorgeZ]

One of the sites I read about the forks said to not even loose them up and just straddle the front wheel and try to twist the handlebars back. That actually got it 90% of the way there. Gonna proprelly retorque them tomorrow after looking it over one more time to get that last 10% ( shoulder is killing me making space in barn to work on bike, then trying to twist the bars )

 

[PeteK]

Do your self a favor and loosen at least the bottom clamp bolts. Then you won’t need nearly as much force on your shoulders to straighten the forks.

 

[GeorgeZ]

Ok, removed front faring, loosened bottom 4 bolts, and straightened it. What is torque for tightening them?

I removed all the turn signals for the stalk delete kit arriving tomorrow.


Bad news maybe? the entire fork assembly can wobble in frame mounting point. umm the Tree? where is has the single connection to frame for steering. I can move tire forward and back a mm or 2 and see it shifting at that spot? withen spec, or should there be no play at all there?