[pdwestman]

I had a gen 2 klr for many years which I loved, and also of course burnt a lot of oil.
But their is so much bullshit floating around regarding the cause, and causes of these problem.
You don't need new rings, a 685 kit or the thermo Bob mod either, whatever the hell that is.
The high oil consumption which I fixed on my klr, is simply a result of the engine push oil out the crankcase breather, which on the klr, is very stupidly plumbed into the airbox? Remember your backyard lawnmower that always had a crankcase breather mounted up beside the throttle on the handlebar.
All you need to do to stop any klr from burning oil, is the plumb in a crankcase breather and mount it up inside the front fairing somewhere, problem solved👍, no more oil burning at any highway speed, and with stock gearing also.
Thought I should share my experiences, in light of all the nonsense I hear in regard to this supposed problem with the bike.
They are a fantastic bike, far better than the dr650 in my opinion.

Very interesting theory.

But most modern engines do plumb the crankcase vent into the air box or even into the intake tract. To take advantage of the low vacuum area to help evacuate harmful crankcase vapors.
Including all of the small 4 stroke gas engine lawnmowers, garden tillers, mini-cycles, water pumps etc that I have had experience with since about 1967.
Most small gas 4 stroke engines are governed to 3600 rpm. Your Australian speed/rpm limit is not much higher with a KLR.

In 35+ years and 89,000+ miles, my personal KLR650 has Never had any crankcase oil in its clean-side air box, yet still uses some oil. Especially at 6500+ rpm in the wide open spaces of Wyoming, USA.

But I'm not saying that you are incorrect. But rather a very interesting topic.

 

[JimR]

Thank you, and I agree that you are probably correct. But that is my interest because I am planning several rides that will easily go beyond 50k miles in the 1st few years. So I am interested in how well the bike will perform at least that far, but preferably even longer because I need to plan for on the road maintenance. I even care about cylinder and transmission life. Mainly, I am looking at the KLR 650 and F850GS (2x more expensive). It's my before I die adventure that I always wanted to do my whole life, to go up, down, and around all of the Americas. I never had time or vacations in life to see anything, but did do a lot of travel to remote places for work in my 20s on bikes and have experience living cheap on the road, which is not easy or always fun, but better to burn out than to fade away IMHO.

I have had Honda and BMW twins that went over 100k without engine or transmission problems, and from what I understand the mfr technology has greatly increased engine performance and longevity in the last decade or so. Back in the 70s, 100k miles was a lot for an engine, but now, it is considered low mileage on many models, and I would guess that some of that technology applies to motorcycles now also.

Before you go with the BMW, read up on some of the key fob issues. I was wanting a new BMW twin, but the salesman and I couldn't mesh, and I definitely did NOT want the fob and he stated that you're gonna get the fob and like it. I mean I was ready to pull the trigger on an $18K bike. But the real deal breaker is when I went over to the parts counter to see how much a service manual/disc cost. I was told that BMW no longer sells manuals to the public. The last straw had been lain! Went around the corner to the multi-Japanese brand dealer and got a 2022 Adventure PLUS the service manual at half of the price. Not sure what you're going to do with your new bike, but I took mine on 4,200 miles 12-day trip riding a mix of interstate, U.S. Routes, state routes, and really crappy BLM roads, and crappy FS roads. I have no regrets and am enjoying the KLR for what it is. Good luck on your selection, but if you end up with a new KLR, please do not worry about the doo thingy and thermo whatever, just ride it and look after the basic maintenance. The money you save will get you some really nice farkles!

Regards, Jim

let us know what you end up with please and why. parties are interested.


For Petes sake!!! This Thread is a year old! Never mind!

 

[healysteven10]

Very interesting theory.

But most modern engines do plumb the crankcase vent into the air box or even into the intake tract. To take advantage of the low vacuum area to help evacuate harmful crankcase vapors.
Including all of the small 4 stroke gas engine lawnmowers, garden tillers, mini-cycles, water pumps etc that I have had experience with since about 1967.
Most small gas 4 stroke engines are governed to 3600 rpm. Your Australian speed/rpm limit is not much higher with a KLR.

In 35+ years and 89,000+ miles, my personal KLR650 has Never had any crankcase oil in its clean-side air box, yet still uses some oil. Especially at 6500+ rpm in the wide open spaces of Wyoming, USA.

But I'm not saying that you are incorrect. But rather a very interesting topic.

With all big singles you end up with uneven crankcase pressures the higher the engine revs, this is one of the reason all big road bikes are multi cylinder engines rather than singles, as they are smoother and burn far less oil as a result of the more even and balanced crankcase pressures.
I could not believe the difference it made in oil consumption with my klr, particularly at highway speeds, it was reduced to virtually nothing, whereas previously before doing this mod, it always burnt a shed load of oil.
Try it!, it's cheap and easy to do, and you won't believe the difference👍

 

[pdwestman]

Try it!, it's cheap and easy to do, and you won't believe the difference👍

Click on your personal Avatar in upper RH corner of screen, it should have a 'dot' next to it. Indicating that you have a private message waiting for you.

 

[Damocles]

If the spring is too tight, then the doohickey/chain will wear too fast. You have to strike a balance somewhere between a spring with a lot of tension and tension-length, and a spring with so much tension that the doohickey or chain has an early failure. At least that's how I see it.

Respectfully, oopsy; I wonder if you grasp the concept of the balancer chain tensioning system on KLR650s. The tension spring merely reduces balancer chain slack, when and only when the hold-down bolt is loosened. After the, "automatic," chain slack adjustment, tightening of the hold-down bolt FIXES (holds down) the adjustment lever position; any spring tension is held by the hold-down bolt; NOT by the balancer chain/sprockets/shaft bearings.

The "doohickey" spring merely removes balancer chain tension only at the moment of adjustment; after hold-down bolt tightening, the spring does NOT exert tenxion/force/leverage upon the, "doohickey/chain," as you call them, components. Spring tension is arrested by the hold-down bolt, when tightened.

YMMV; but . . . if you fear the doohickey, maybe a motorcycle model orher than a KLR may be more suitable for your riding environment and style.

 

[DPelletier]

I had a gen 2 klr for many years which I loved, and also of course burnt a lot of oil.
But their is so much bullshit floating around regarding the cause, and causes of these problem.
You don't need new rings, a 685 kit or the thermo Bob mod either, whatever the hell that is.
The high oil consumption which I fixed on my klr, is simply a result of the engine push oil out the crankcase breather, which on the klr, is very stupidly plumbed into the airbox? Remember your backyard lawnmower that always had a crankcase breather mounted up beside the throttle on the handlebar.
All you need to do to stop any klr from burning oil, is the plumb in a crankcase breather and mount it up inside the front fairing somewhere, problem solved👍, no more oil burning at any highway speed, and with stock gearing also.
Thought I should share my experiences, in light of all the nonsense I hear in regard to this supposed problem with the bike.
They are a fantastic bike, far better than the dr650 in my opinion.

So Glad you could come on here and figure it out for us; we've all been struggling with this question for a few decades so it's nice that you can finally tell us what the real issue is!

1) there is more than one cause for oil burning in a KLR. YOUR KLR perhaps didn't have an issue with the rings or bore but a great many do.

2) read this: Post Page

cheers,

Dave

 

[Belldriver]

You evil man, you...

 

[healysteven10]

With all big singles you end up with uneven crankcase pressures the higher the engine revs, this is one of the reason all big road bikes are multi cylinder engines rather than singles, as they are smoother and burn far less oil as a result of the more even and balanced crankcase pressures.
I could not believe the difference it made in oil consumption with my klr, particularly at highway speeds, it was reduced to virtually nothing, whereas previously before doing this mod, it always burnt a shed load of oil.
Try it!, it's cheap and easy to do, and you won't believe the difference👍

The klr's burn oil because the crankcase is not vented to atmosphere, but back into the engine via the airbox. And with the uneven crankcase pressures particularly at high rpm, they blow oil overboard back into the engine to be burnt.
This is why klr's use a lot of oil.

So Glad you could come on here and figure it out for us; we've all been struggling with this question for a few decades so it's nice that you can finally tell us what the real issue is!

1) there is more than one cause for oil burning in a KLR. YOUR KLR perhaps didn't have an issue with the rings or bore but a great many do.

2) read this: Post Page

cheers,

Dave

My pleasure!, glad I could help you all👍

 

[Belldriver]

Explain why my KLR doesn*t burn any oil after a piston upgrade while still venting via the airbox ?
I am waiting.

 

[Klrian]

The klr's burn oil because the crankcase is not vented to atmosphere, but back into the engine via the airbox. And with the uneven crankcase pressures particularly at high rpm, they blow oil overboard back into the engine to be burnt.
This is why klr's use a lot of oil.

I'm not sure what you're smoking but you will need to pass it around if you expect people to belive you.

 

[healysteven10]

Explain why my KLR doesn*t burn any oil after a piston upgrade while still venting via the airbox ?
I am waiting.

I don't believe what you say!

 

[healysteven10]

I don't believe what you say!

Are you in the business of selling aftermarket piston kits for the klr?. I know what l am talking about

 

[Belldriver]

 

[healysteven10]

I'm not sure what you're smoking but you will need to pass it around if you expect people to belive you.

It works!, its the main cause of the excessive oil burning issues of the klr, I know I owned one for 10 years

 

[DPelletier]

I know I owned one for 10 years

Yeah most of the rest of us are really 12 y/o boys sitting in our parent's basement pretending to own KLR's.....


Dave

 

[Belldriver]

✂️ Feed the troll

10 seconds · Clipped by XLV750RD01 · Original video "Blue Thunder (1983) - "Don't Hop!"" by 6201Films

youtube.com

Tom, get out the scissors and do your thing. Beer's on me.

 

[KLR-Mule]

You all need to run Amsoil in your KLR’s. It’ll stop all oil consumption issues. I know what I’m talking about.
Lovin this thread!

 

[healysteven10]

You all need to run Amsoil in your KLR’s. It’ll stop all oil consumption issues. I know what I’m talking about.
Lovin this thread!

No that is correct!

 

[MVMike]

Please explain “Uneven Crankcase Pressures” Uneven to what?
How are they “Even” in a multi-cylinder motor? (as you stated)
Thanks

 

[pdwestman]

My second comment was directly below his second comment.

Click on your personal Avatar in upper RH corner of screen, it should have a 'dot' next to it. Indicating that you have a private message waiting for you.

2) read this: Post Page

cheers,

Dave

healysteven 10 might have already found that in his PM box or possibly not.

I've never ever found any crankcase oil in my clean side air box, but my bike still uses some oil. OEM piston & rings.
So in the interest of KLR science, I'll install a Uni-filter onto my crankcase vent before riding season and cap the nipple on the air box.