Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

Should I trade for a KLR 650

11K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  Paper  
#1 ·
Hey Guys… New to the site.. this is my first post.
I have an opportunity to trade my 2001 Honda CRF450 dirt bike that I do not ride ever, for a 1994 KLR650. Both bike are in perfect condition. My Honda is worth more $$$ but I would use the KLR650 all the time. This would be an even trade. I wanted to ask you guys who love the KLR’s if you recommend the deal?
Any thing I should check on that bike before I trade?
Crazy Jake
 
#2 ·
Purely on a dollar for dollar trade, you're getting a bad deal..
Also, CRF450's weren't made until 2002..
Retail value on a 02' CRF450 is $2045
The 1994 KLR650 is only worth $1560, when comparing apples to apples..

So, I'd kick around selling the CRF outright for as much as you can get, and then buying a KLR..

You're going to notice much worse power and suspension on the KLR, but yeah, you can legally ride it on the road..

Just not sure if you're going to be happy with this trade.. I'd keep looking, but I'm a full fledged KLR rider (aka-cheap) :)
 
#3 ·
Sorry I’m new to this posting thing…. I was off on both years…. My Honda is a 2002, And the KLR is a 1996…. Like I said. I know that my bike is worth more but I would use the KLR…… the older I get the less I want to ride the CRF…… Is the 1996 KLR 650 a good bike that you guys like
 
#4 ·
I know how you feel as far as riding stricktly offroad.. I sold my heavily modded KDX200 and bought a KLR.. Many thought it was a bad decision, but I've been happy with my 2002 KLR since I bought it in 2004..

As far as a 1996 model, it's really no different than a 2007, except for color and the fact that your bike was assembled in Japan at Kawasaki, rather than in Thailand..

If the 1996 was cared for, chances are it will treat you well for years to come..

Hell, I've got over 20K on my 2002 and I'm kicking around riding it to Colorado and Utah next summer.. That's 1000 miles each way, just to get there, here from the IL/WI state line.

Got any other info on the KLR?? Miles, condition, service, was the Doohickey done?
 
#5 ·
I don’t know allot about the KLR. I am going to look at the bike tomorrow.. I do know that the bike is owned by a guy that is well known for taking very good care of his things. …. I live in CT and I have a camp in VT that I would ride the KLR on the dirt roads. I know a few guys that have KLR’s and they LOVE them so I am sure I will like it. I only rode my CRF once this year. And for 10 minutes at best. I would ride that KLR every day up at the camp….
 
#6 ·
I don't know, but it sounds like you've already talked yourself into it.. :)

Take a good look at the bike and ask a lot of questions as far as the history of the bike.. And then feel free to ask as many questions here as you want.. There's a lot of KRL history and knowledge floating around on this site, just waiting for questions to answer.

Good luck!!
 
#8 ·
I traded my 98 Shadow that I never rode anymore for my KLR... I had to kick in $1200 for the difference in values but it was still the best trade I've ever done. I ride the KLR almost daily (except in the winter). Coolest part is that it's almost like I got a nearly new bike for only $1200 since the Shadow was just sitting around the garage taking up space anyway, and paid for long long ago :D


Cheers,
Stew
 
#9 ·
I am exited to know that there are so many people that love the KLR. From what I can tell the bike is almost the same from 1988 threw 2007? This would lead me to believe that a 1996 that has been well cared for will last me a long time…..
I am excited about the KLR… I will see the bike in 2 hours and make my decision then.
Jake
 
#10 ·
Actually 1987 through 2007, and truthfully, the Generation 2 aren't that much different than the original..

The Gen 1 bikes have a billion (last time I counted) options available aftermarket trinkets.. I ride fairly often with 7-8 KLR riders, and all of our bikes are different, yet similar.

Good luck!
 
#11 ·
I have had a KLR 650 since January of 06 and enjoy the bike for transportation use. They are by far not the best traveling bike on todays market but they are better than the bikes I started out on in the early 70's.

Like paper said you need to see what the owner knows about the bike as far as his service history goes. These are a bike that require some tinkering to keep them in good health but they are dependable to say the least. For forest service roads they are a good choice and with some add ons you can carry the load and ride in comfort (relatively speaking).

Just take your time and make sure you don't get a problem. The 96 is almost 15 years old and if it's been sitting things tend to go bad. The water pump seal comes to mind when I think of a KLR sitting for a long time. Then there are the fork seals, the rear shock may be week (check to see where the damper adjustment is set) and by all means if the oil is brand new and looks like pure grade A maple syrup you need to be careful. I mention the oil because if I were to sell my bike tomorrow I would not need to change the oil. If the owner takes good care of the bike the oil should be good and the bike should be ready to go in 'as is' condition.

Just a few things to bear in mind when buying a 15 - 16 year old motorcycle of any make.

Ard
 
#12 · (Edited)
Jake -

One plus for the is that was one of the years when Kawasaki made upgrades, so your '96 would be virtually the same as all the KLRs through 2007. The changes were made mid-year.

Look at the countershaft sprocket - if it is retained by a large nut, then you've got a specimen that has the '96 changes. I beleive that this is the best way to tell - someone smack me down if I'm wrong.

Biggest known issue with these bikes is the counter balance adjustment lever, AKA the 'doohickey'. Try and find out from the owner if this has been attended to. It's not a big job, but it requires special tools should be done.

How many miles on this bike?

Tom
 
#14 ·
I went to see the KLR…. I love it… The Bike is forest green, and is in really really well taken care of. The bike has not one scratch. The bike has sat for about two (2) years. I met the guy at his house and I was a little early, so I was there before him. I helped him move some lawn chares to role the bike from his garage (so I know the bike has not been moved in some time). I set the choke hit the button and the bike fired right up…. GOOD…. However the bike would idol perfect, when I rev to about 3500 RPM the bike would quite, let off and the bike would idol again. Then after letting the bike worm up I rev the bike to full throttle after about 5000 RPM the bike would run again. So between 3500 and 5000 the bike would fall on its face…… Any Ideas??? I am guessing that the carburetor has a clogged jet??? The bike is really nice with a corbon seat. I am going to make the deal later this week. Any Ideas on the Carburetor?

Jake
 
#16 ·
Sounds like some cob webs in the carb from sitting. Some magic pour in elixir [Sea Foam, etc] might clear it up, or a simple carburetor clean out may be in order. What ever it is, it does not sound serious. The Keihin CV 40 carburetor on the KLR is simple to work on, and there will be countless keyboard commandos standing by to walk you through the process, all waiting to be first to tell you to go to the Harley shop for parts.

So. Any modifications? Didja ask about the doohickey? [Ya gotta ask about the doohickey. That shows that you are a card carryin' KLRista. Its got nothing to do with the buying price or condition of the bike. Its the equivalent of a secret handshake]

Valves ever been adjusted? Pull the trigger on it. Get it home. get it out of there. Someone else might snatch it up. Move. Now.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the info, and please keep me up to date with the doohickey deals… I am not yet a KLR feene… but I see it coming…
I wanted to mention that the bike has 9,905 miles on it….
Is there any one that would like to sell a set of saddle bags for the KLR?
Jake
 
#18 ·
There's a bunch of companies that make bag setups for a KLR. There's usually a good set of used frames floating around if you look hard enough.

And less than 10,000 miles on a bike that age means it's either been ridden hard offroad and often broken, or been well cared for and only ridden occasionally by someone who takes care of the bike.. Sounds like a perfect plan "b" bike..

I'd also recommend vatrader's small print.. :)

Carbs just need a good bottle of SeaFoam run through them, or a cleaning at worst.
 
#19 ·
Jake,

I hope it works out well for you because you have made up your mind. One thing cool about getting a 96' is you'll look like a grizzled KLR guy the first time you let it get dirty. Toss on a pair of 'used' panniers with some faded and peeling stickers on them and every time you stop for gas chicks will be all over you! That's what I really like about the KLR, wild women are drawn to them like moths to a spot light :cool0012:
 
#21 ·
every time you stop for gas chicks will be all over you! That's what I really like about the KLR, wild women are drawn to them like moths to a spot light :cool0012:

YA, for sure. Parked mine on the beach to take a picture and look what happens!!!



Image
 
#22 ·
Sea Foam
It makes my carb so clean
Sea Foam
Goes in my gasoline
Sea Foam, I sure love Sea Foam
(But I wish they'd checked with me before they 'modernized' the can.)
 
#25 ·
So I traded for the KLR….. I am very excited…. (I did start a tread to see what people think its worth)

Tell me about the Sea Foam? The bike will start and idle if the pet cock is on reserve. If I give any gas the bike stalls. The bike has about a half tank of gas, I may remove this gas and start fresh. I was thinking I would mix 1 once Sea Foam with 1 gallon gas and let the bike idle for a wile… then let the bike sit for a wile with the new gas/Sea Foam sit in the carburetor for a day… then see what happens
 
#26 ·
Bike has been sitting with gas in it for awhile yes?

Better to take the carb apart and clean it properly. Also take the tank off and flush it out and clean out the petcock.

Make sure the tank vent lines and the carb vent lines are clear. Check the vacuum line on the back of the petcock.