[Damocles]

Your starter CIRCUIT relay needs fulfillment of safety switch logic to close its contact; STARTER relay (inaccurately called the "solenoid," by some) cannot actuate unless the starter CIRCUIT relay is activated.

With a multi-meter and a wiring diagram (available on the 'Net), you can chase wiring continuity and voltages to diagnose (and fix) your problem.

The starter button sends + 12 VDC through the starter CIRCUIT relay contacts to the STARTER relay. Somehow, this chain appears interrupted with your bike.

 

[Damocles]

The diode pack which contains the three diodes fed by the three safety switches (neural, clutch and side stand) is behind the dash near the headlight housing. If the light is messed up the diode pack or the wiring to/from it may be also. If no signal gets through this pack, the starter will not operate and the ignition will not fire the plug.

Quite so. If the safety switch logic isn't fulfilled, the starter CIRCUIT relay has no ground and cannot be activated; thus, no control voltage activates the STARTER relay.

Could the safety switch circuitry (including the starter CIRCUIT relay) be bypassed entirely, with the + 12 VDC OUT of the starter button switch wired directly to the small control voltage terminal of the STARTER relay? Probably!

 

[Damocles]

Thanks so much, I’ll try to measure these things out although I have to admit I’m not the most proficient with a multimeter. I think you’re likely right on it’s the diode pack or the relay, since the turn signal relay was broken out of the bike entirely and the big grey plug on the wiring harness that clips into the same place had the clips broken. Would suggest that area saw some damage in the crash even though the diode and starter relays were not displaced. Thanks again and I’ll let you know my progress/any other questions. I really appreciate it.

Good luck, Aghutter, and remember--the starter CIRCUIT relay and the STARTER relay are two separate and distinctly different animals!