That seems to be a common question, so here's one answer.
T
T
The Doohickey got fixed on the Gen2 bikes, right? Ah, but the spring, the spring....
Tom Schmitz
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Again, yes, you can just replace the linear spring to restore tension.
It's behind the big round thing with teeth on it, which is held in place by a $25 one-time-use bolt with 150 ft-lbs of torque.
![Image]()
By the time you get to the spring you've done 80% of the work involved in doing the entire job, including replacing the lever and installing a torsion spring. The torsion spring does not require replacement, ever. The linear springs may, if the chain wears enough.
T
It's behind the big round thing with teeth on it, which is held in place by a $25 one-time-use bolt with 150 ft-lbs of torque.
By the time you get to the spring you've done 80% of the work involved in doing the entire job, including replacing the lever and installing a torsion spring. The torsion spring does not require replacement, ever. The linear springs may, if the chain wears enough.
T
I see- so it's not as easy to replace as I thought, I see now in the video there's been quite a bit of disassembly when you slid the spring off.
But am I misunderstanding? Why does the kit come with three springs if the goal is for springs that don't require replacement? What are the other two for?
But am I misunderstanding? Why does the kit come with three springs if the goal is for springs that don't require replacement? What are the other two for?
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There are, in essence, two kits.
One, the original design from Eagle Mike, replaced the linear springs. I was in error, as willys pointed out, in that there are only two springs in the kit.
During the installation you needed to determine which spring (length) was required based upon the amount of wear the chain had. If your chain was not very worn you put the longer one on as the shorter one was difficult to fit and might provide excessive tension.
Later, Mike developed the torsion spring kit. The intent there was to do away with the necessity to go back in at a later date and install the shorter spring (which would only occur after considerably more miles were covered). The torsion spring is installed such that it will provide adequate tension on the lever for the life of the chain.
You chose one or the other, linear or torsion, but not both. The torsion spring is a bit more expensive and a bit more involved to install, but you can rest assured that you will only need to do it once.
As to the revised clocking of the lever, which you can see in the video, I believe Mike did that to allow the chain to wear to its full service length yet still be adjustable.
Tom
One, the original design from Eagle Mike, replaced the linear springs. I was in error, as willys pointed out, in that there are only two springs in the kit.
During the installation you needed to determine which spring (length) was required based upon the amount of wear the chain had. If your chain was not very worn you put the longer one on as the shorter one was difficult to fit and might provide excessive tension.
Later, Mike developed the torsion spring kit. The intent there was to do away with the necessity to go back in at a later date and install the shorter spring (which would only occur after considerably more miles were covered). The torsion spring is installed such that it will provide adequate tension on the lever for the life of the chain.
You chose one or the other, linear or torsion, but not both. The torsion spring is a bit more expensive and a bit more involved to install, but you can rest assured that you will only need to do it once.
As to the revised clocking of the lever, which you can see in the video, I believe Mike did that to allow the chain to wear to its full service length yet still be adjustable.
Tom
Ok, thanks - picture is getting clearer.
So, for the $140 and three hour investment, the result (with the kit with the torsion spring) actually could be a 2nd gen bike that has a tangible improvement over the stock setup.
I'm still not yet feeling urgency to pull out my wallet to do this on my bike that has all of 8000 miles on it...
So when do you think a person might begin running the risk of having enough chain stretch that they actually could feasibly start reaching the limits of the stock adjuster spring, as it seems you did in your video?
Or rather, let me substitute a better question -
What symptoms would tell you "it's time"?
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The symptom of a balancer chain needing adjustment is a bit of a rattly, rough sound. It's not the chain hitting anything, but rather the thing whipping harmonically along it's free runs and taking a bit of a wide course over the gears.
Normally, simply popping the rubber cover off the adjuster bolt and backing it off half a turn and whacking the head of the ratchet wrench with a screw driver handle while the socket is on the bolt, then re-tightening the bolt by half a turn will quiet things down. The whack is to make sure the lever moves by shocking it a bit. They can get stuck such that simply loosening the bolt and re-tightening it won't move the lever, especially if the spring is on it's last legs.
If it doesn't quiet down the spring has likely gone slack. We must also note that, in the case of a slack spring, performing the adjustment will likely make the chain looser because the lever is free to move in the wrong direction. The rough rattling sound will get worse.
At the risk of being a pedant, just do the doo. Git 'er done. Find an upcoming tech day where the tools will be available and order the kit ahead of time. Mike will get it to you quickly. Have it done at the tech day, meet some new friends, drink some beer and eat some barbecue, and rest easy for the remainder of your KLR ownership.
I wouldn't be as forthright with a Gen 1 (but that's another story) but this slack spring thing with the Gen 2 seems to be epidemic. I've yet to hear of anyone with more than 10,000 miles not finding a slack spring and it is often found at far less mileage.
T
Normally, simply popping the rubber cover off the adjuster bolt and backing it off half a turn and whacking the head of the ratchet wrench with a screw driver handle while the socket is on the bolt, then re-tightening the bolt by half a turn will quiet things down. The whack is to make sure the lever moves by shocking it a bit. They can get stuck such that simply loosening the bolt and re-tightening it won't move the lever, especially if the spring is on it's last legs.
If it doesn't quiet down the spring has likely gone slack. We must also note that, in the case of a slack spring, performing the adjustment will likely make the chain looser because the lever is free to move in the wrong direction. The rough rattling sound will get worse.
At the risk of being a pedant, just do the doo. Git 'er done. Find an upcoming tech day where the tools will be available and order the kit ahead of time. Mike will get it to you quickly. Have it done at the tech day, meet some new friends, drink some beer and eat some barbecue, and rest easy for the remainder of your KLR ownership.
I wouldn't be as forthright with a Gen 1 (but that's another story) but this slack spring thing with the Gen 2 seems to be epidemic. I've yet to hear of anyone with more than 10,000 miles not finding a slack spring and it is often found at far less mileage.
T
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A tech day is pretty common in the motorcycle world.
Someone will host the event and there will be knowledgeable folks to help and coach people through common maintenance and repair stuff. The host usually provides some food, work space, basic tools, and guests usually bring something in return, be it beer, sodas, donuts, a few jugs of Rotella, some schwag or spare parts.
Common at KLR tech days is doohickey, 22 cent mod, tire changing, etc. Just about anything that a new owner might not feel comfortable doing, or perhaps have the tools to do.
You may need to get onto some of the local New York rider/dual sport forums and hunt around a bit to find one and you may have to travel some distance, but if you plan ahead for what you want to do you'll very likely find it a rewarding way to spend a day or two. Let the host know ahead of time what you need to do to be sure it can be accomdated,and ask what you can brig for the group.
Take a look at these threads to see what kind of shenanigans we get into here in California.
http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=13685
http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=10048
Most tech days aren't as wild; more like an all day ride-in/work/ride-out, but you never know what you might find.
Tom
Someone will host the event and there will be knowledgeable folks to help and coach people through common maintenance and repair stuff. The host usually provides some food, work space, basic tools, and guests usually bring something in return, be it beer, sodas, donuts, a few jugs of Rotella, some schwag or spare parts.
Common at KLR tech days is doohickey, 22 cent mod, tire changing, etc. Just about anything that a new owner might not feel comfortable doing, or perhaps have the tools to do.
You may need to get onto some of the local New York rider/dual sport forums and hunt around a bit to find one and you may have to travel some distance, but if you plan ahead for what you want to do you'll very likely find it a rewarding way to spend a day or two. Let the host know ahead of time what you need to do to be sure it can be accomdated,and ask what you can brig for the group.
Take a look at these threads to see what kind of shenanigans we get into here in California.
http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=13685
http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=10048
Most tech days aren't as wild; more like an all day ride-in/work/ride-out, but you never know what you might find.
Tom
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376 Posts
Easy: if you haven't replaced it, it's not working. ;-) ;-)
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I meant in tongue-in-cheek, but now that I think about it, everyone I know who has had their gen2 right side open has found a slack spring.
Has anyone here had a spring with tension in it? It would be nice to know percentages.
I did my '03 about a month ago with 3500k showing on the odometer. The Doo and spring were in perfect shape. I don't believe it had ever been adjusted. The spring had good tension. I don't feel bad about spending the money and changing it out though. I have seen enough pictures of failed ones to not want to take the chance.
I will let you know what I find when I do the Doo on my 2011.
Regards....justjeff
I will let you know what I find when I do the Doo on my 2011.
Regards....justjeff
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376 Posts
My '95 with 12K on it was in perfect shape, too.
Looking forward to what you find on the '11!
Is there some place that's already gathering spring failure stats that anyone knows of?
I don't think you are going to find anyone keeping formal stats. You can read some interesting tidbits on Eagle Mike's website or just doo a google search on KLR Doohickey images to see lots of broken ones. This forum has lots of references as well. So does .net and ADV. There are some that Poo the Doo but after looking at all the broken doos and springs I chose to be proactive and did mine.
Regards....justjeff
Regards....justjeff
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Hi guys, I just got my first klr a 2011 model with 2,600 miles, this doohickey your talking about, is the 2011 model year have the same problems that your talking about?Another thing, I got theklr so I wouldn't have to haul my bike to the places we ride. I wont be going on adventures or long trips, just local. The only thing I don't like about the bike is the front fering, I want to be able to see the front fender when i'm in the wood's. I want to remove it and put on a after market headlight, and make a mount for the gauges, has any of you done this, if so where did you get your parts and how did you mount the headlight?
To the best of my knowledge and belief, no 2008 or later doohickey (idler shaft lever) has failed, nor has one been the source of any maintenance issues.
Spring tension issues have surfaced; the aftermarket torsion spring remains superior to OEM (stock) coil springs IMHO; even aftermarket coil springs appear superior to the factory originals, from reports I've read.
Full disclosure: Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring on my Generation 1.
Spring tension issues have surfaced; the aftermarket torsion spring remains superior to OEM (stock) coil springs IMHO; even aftermarket coil springs appear superior to the factory originals, from reports I've read.
Full disclosure: Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring on my Generation 1.
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2008 and up was what Tom was talking about in the original post. (Not that having a pre-2008 would help you; they're even worse when it comes to doo failures.)
If I'm recalling the last KLR tech day I went to correctly, we did 3 bikes up with EM parts and the torsion spring:
gen1: doo and spring OK
gen2: doo OK, spring loose (Snakeboy's... is that right?)
gen2: doo OK, spring loose
All were relatively low mileage bikes. If I had a gen2, I'd replace the spring from everything I've read and seen.
Also, I haven't heard of a gen2 failing from not replacing the spring... so...
I have a 2013 with at the time of Doo replacement had 3,800 miles on it. The Doo Hicky was in good shape. The spring had no tension on it at all. We had a tech day in Flagstaff with Eagle Mike and Wymann. There were about 30 KLR and 20 or more had the Doo Hickies and tension springs replaced that day. Gen I and II bikes. I have the ex-tended warrant on my bike and figured if it blows, let Kawasaki deal with it. I'm glad I pulled it apart. I'm a believer.
Decisions, decisions, duh
Hum, I've been trying to study up on this Doohickey for a new to me '08 KLR with 2,000 miles on it. :Tongue2: The more I read the more indecisive I get.
I think I'll put some miles on the bike, learn how the stock adjustments go, learn how to monitor and maintain proper chain settings and see when I start hearing anything.
Thanks for the posts. I would like to find a Tech Day around Seattle.
See Ya.
Hum, I've been trying to study up on this Doohickey for a new to me '08 KLR with 2,000 miles on it. :Tongue2: The more I read the more indecisive I get.
I think I'll put some miles on the bike, learn how the stock adjustments go, learn how to monitor and maintain proper chain settings and see when I start hearing anything.
Thanks for the posts. I would like to find a Tech Day around Seattle.
See Ya.
Harvey. Read the post directly above yours. That's all the info you need. I know how it goes, - reading more doesn't necessarily give you more knowledge.
The spring attached to your bikes Doohickey is the weak point. For $40 replace the works and forget about it. Then the "indecisiveness" will be over.
The spring attached to your bikes Doohickey is the weak point. For $40 replace the works and forget about it. Then the "indecisiveness" will be over.
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