I am trying the same pressure I used in the Himalayan.
25 front
34 rear.

 

I am trying the same pressure I used in the Himalayan.
25 front
34 rear.

Why??
When so many Long time KLR riders / forum members suggest using more air in the skinny front tires of all these types of bikes than the fatter / larger contact patch rear tires?

The tires support the bikes by the internal psi of the tires spread across the Square Inches of Contact on the ground.
Less square inches on the ground needs more psi to support the weight.
I'll again urge everyone to at least try 34-30psi Front and 32-28psi in the Rear regardless of tire brands/models.

 

We may need to cremate that horse!
Shinko 705 with an IRC heavy duty tube. Riding 2-up with loaded panniers and top box was right at 500 lbs. 100+ degree outside temps.

Although I think the owners manual is full of crappola for the most part, I do happen to agree with the listed max-weight rear tire psi recommendation being higher than the front. That’s about the only thing I agree with in that so-called manual….even tho the listed front psi is too low IMO.
Just my .02

 

We may need to cremate that horse!
Shinko 705 with an IRC heavy duty tube. Riding 2-up with loaded panniers and top box was right at 500 lbs. 100+ degree outside temps.

Although I think the owners manual is full of crappola for the most part, I do happen to agree with the listed max-weight rear tire psi recommendation being higher than the front. That’s about the only thing I agree with in that so-called manual….even tho the listed front psi is too low IMO.
Just my .02

Tire and tube both have good reputation and are widely used; no clarity there. I still wonder about tire lube.... Sorry, I forgot I was on the 2022 forum when I posted the 28psi factory recommendation which it was up until now. I love how Kawi goes from recommending 21 psi at 215 lbs to 36 psi at 216 lbs!

I will agree on the front: 21PSI is way too low and I run 22 - 24 even offroad.

 

And even again I will suggest to EVERYONE riding a KLR650 of any year, whether solo, 2 up or loaded to the absolute MAXIMUM or beyond, to run at least 2 more PSI in the Skinny front tire than what you choose to run in the Fatter, Broader, more square Inches of contact patch REAR TIRE!!

TRY IT for a thousand miles! It is free.

 

And even again I will suggest to EVERYONE riding a KLR650 of any year, whether solo, 2 up or loaded to the absolute MAXIMUM or beyond, to run at least 2 more PSI in the Skinny front tire than what you choose to run in the Fatter, Broader, more square Inches of contact patch REAR TIRE!!

TRY IT for a thousand miles! It is free.

I would say this advice might be worth considering for someone that lives in a mild climate well below 100 degrees, and no 2-up riding or heavy loads.
Riders who are heavier (like me ) and/or ride 2-up often in extreme summer temps should really consider bumping up the rear tire psi.
Most motorcycle mechanics I’ve spoke to concerning tires recommend a ~10% increase in rear tire pressure than the front. Seems to be a very common practice, but not to some I suppose.

 

Not an expert but I think it has more to do with temperature and tire model/brand. If I ride 65 or under I've never seen my tires get more hot than my wife's street bike. This is with a motoz gps hot summer with psi 32/30, 28/26, 21/26.

With my knobby tires the results are way different. The MX32 hard tire 90/100/21 at 21 psi doesn't flatten out as much as the Trakmaster 2 at 21 psi. However if I put these tires at 32-32, and drive street, they burn up fast. Two totally different sets of tires behaving differently. 20/20 with these tires and it's a dirt bike.

Yes, the KLR is a transformer.

(I thought I heard someone say the 255shinkos are a great combo. Might try that next as I think the key to having the best street/off-road tire has everything to do with air management.)

If you want to drive fast interstate speeds all day long with the occasional old man gravel road riding I'd go as high as you can. If you're driving off-road and you are a weekend warrior like me, dang I could probably get away with 16-18psi because I'm not Jarvis.

I think every tire is different.

 

I tried the higher front vs rear pressures as recommended by a couple of posters. 32/30. Tires are Trail Max Mission. All seemed good for local riding/communting.

But, I'm not saying the pressures are the cause, but at 75+ mph I get a sever scary as hell weave when encountering truck ruts and any other pavement irregularities. I just did a 300 miles round trip on the highway and needed to keep speeds below 70 to be safe.
I was carrying a heavy load of luggage. So, I bumped the rear to 36psi, Bumped the preload to 5. Still scary as hell weave when hitting expansion joints and cracks. I removed all the luggage. Still scary.
I just checked rear tire alignment using the swingarm marks. I know, they may be off.
I just retorqued the front axle and pinch bolts. If I get time today I need to go take it up to 80 and see what happens.

So in summary, the 32/30 front/rear combo seems to work well. Better then I expected. Now, I need to work on the highway speeds weave. I didn't have this on the stock tires.

 

I tried the higher front vs rear pressures as recommended by a couple of posters. 32/30. Tires are Trail Max Mission. All seemed good for local riding/communting.

But, I'm not saying the pressures are the cause, but at 75+ mph I get a sever scary as hell weave when encountering truck ruts and any other pavement irregularities. I just did a 300 miles round trip on the highway and needed to keep speeds below 70 to be safe.
I was carrying a heavy load of luggage. So, I bumped the rear to 36psi, Bumped the preload to 5. Still scary as hell weave when hitting expansion joints and cracks. I removed all the luggage. Still scary.
I just checked rear tire alignment using the swingarm marks. I know, they may be off.
I just retorqued the front axle and pinch bolts. If I get time today I need to go take it up to 80 and see what happens.

So in summary, the 32/30 front/rear combo seems to work well. Better then I expected. Now, I need to work on the highway speeds weave. I didn't have this on the stock tires.

Since the 32/30 F/R pressure didn't do anything with your high speed weave, try 26/30 F/R. Not saying this will help, but give it a try. Also bump your Rebound Damping. I'm also thinking a fork brace would help, but I have no experience with them, although their explanation to justify their addition makes sense to me.

I've been running the 26/30 F/R on my Dunlop TMM tires on my '22, lightly loaded, no problem with expansion joints at high speed. I do still get a slight wiggle at 90+ WOT when I hit a bump. Maybe because the front end is really light at those moments. Don't know. But at normal 75-85 cruising, it's perfectly fine.

 

Yep, you’ve had a similar experience as many others.

In priority order:
1. Keep rear tire pressure up.
2. Street tires have stiffer sidewalls and tread than dirt-oriented tires and tend to weave less. Shinko 705’s made a significant improvement on my 2013.
3. Move loads lower and further forward. High and rear makes the bike less stable.
4. Rear wheel alignment has very little effect.
5. Front tires or other front end factors have nothing to do with high-speed weave. Those affect front end vibrations and “handlebar shakes.”

 

or other front end factors have nothing to do with high-speed weave.

I will suggest that dimpled, loose or rusty steering head bearings will definitely affect the possibility of high speed weave.

 

Paul, I've experimented with high speed weaves on several bikes over the 40 years since I first got spit off a Suzuki GS1150 at highway speed on I-10 near Pensacola, FL in 1982. I know you have more experience with KLRs than almost anyone on the planet, and more than I ever will, but I also have pondered and worked on this issue for a long time.

Steering bearings that bind or are too loose, or have "notchiness" do not cause high speed weave. However, they do cause or contribute to front end problems, particularly a tendency to keep falling into turns, so that you have to pull the handlebars the other way in order not to fall completely over; and a tendency to not run straight down the road, but to move left and right. Front tire imbalances, irregularities, and cupping will cause head shakes, or handlebar shakes, or the like. But those are almost always damped out by simply keeping your hands on the bars.

High speed weave results from flexiness in the rear of the bike, IMO mainly the tires, and can be exacerbated by an underdamped rear suspension and loading the bike high and to the rear (too much weight in a top box, for example). In the experimenting I've done, nothing I did to the front end had any effect on high speed weave. I've found that increasing rear tire pressure reduces high speed weave, but changing rear tires usually has the most effect.

Do you remember the methodical testing I did on the MCP carb kit last year? I was just as methodical in testing changes to the front and rear suspensions, wheels, tires, etc. when I was chasing down high speed weaves on other bikes, and then my 2013 KLR a year and a half ago. One thing that I think would quell high speed weaves, but I have not experimented with because it's too much work, is to change the rear wheel to a wider rim. Other factors being equal, a wider rim reduces tire sidewall flex. As you know, KLRs have relatively narrow rear rims.

 

I do recall the front end feeling very unstable at higher speeds with Kawasaki’s recommended 21psi. I think that does hold some merit.

Pete, your mention of underdamped (or under-sprung) rear suspension is one that I didn’t think much of until most recently.
Now that I’ve upgraded the soft OEM noodle to a Top Gun 7.4, the bike feels much more planted to the ground. High speed stability has also increased a good bunch.

 

I've always said that unless something is worn/broken that instability is largely suspension and settings as well as loading and wind resistance (from top boxes, etc.). My KLR's are rock steady at 75mph with MT21 knobby front tires at 22 - 24 psi. and D606 rears at 20-22 psi. ......like one hand on the bar around corners steady. I attribute it to my Cogent suspension which is set up properly and my lack of huge heavy boxes or panniers. I don't believe either knobbies OR low tire pressure CAUSE instability though either may allow another problem to manifest itself more noticeably.

2 cents,

Dave

 

I've always said that unless something is worn/broken that instability is largely suspension and settings as well as loading and wind resistance (from top boxes, etc.). My KLR's are rock steady at 75mph with MT21 knobby front tires at 22 - 24 psi. and D606 rears at 20-22 psi. ......like one hand on the bar around corners steady. I attribute it to my Cogent suspension which is set up properly and my lack of huge heavy boxes or panniers. I don't believe either knobbies OR low tire pressure CAUSE instability though either may allow another problem to manifest itself more noticeably.

2 cents,

Dave

How many miles do you get out of a set of those tires?

 

A well worn/squared off rear tire will allow the rear-end to 'hunt' side to side over roadway irregularities. Causing the tail-end to wag.

 

That too. I find that tires that are worn in the middle, or squared off, have a tendency to not turn in as easily, or stay in a turn. This is particularly noticeable on my Electraglide where a new front tire makes the bike very easy to turn and hold in a turn, but as it gets worn in the middle, it takes more pressure on the bars to initiate and stay in a turn. It wants to stand up.

 

I'm glad I bumped into this thread.
My tire pressure from the dealer was 17F/19R. And it ran so darn nice on the road I didn't think to mess with it. But then I've only touched 70MPH a couple times and not for long.

My guess is at one time it might have been 21/21 and they didn't bother checking it before I picked it up. It was a slap the plate on here's your keys kind of transaction. Does Kaw send out an email survey? I always like filling those out honestly

Anyway, I'm not sure I want to go all the way up to 34/32, but maybe somewhere in-between. And with the front 2lbs more that the rear. Obviously I've been running too soft. I was wondering how the suspension was so dialed in. Now I know. The soft tires were no doubt compensating.

 

Don't be afraid to try different tire pressures--it's easy to do and free. Go up to 34/32. See if you like it. If not, stop in a parking lot and let some out (carry a gauge). And keep doing that until you don't like it, then add back a few psi. Another benefit of higher pressure is that the tires tend to cup less.

 

I was thinking of starting in the middle and working my way up. If needed. I just want to get away from running so darn soft. Just trying to gain better tire mileage without losing the great feel the bike already has.
If I go rock hard right off the bat that could take me down a slippery slope of constantly playing with the suspension, when less tire pressure is the answer.

Plus I'm not a two up rider (like someone mentioned running that pressure) and won't be putting 40lbs of stuff on the bike and doing a 600 mile day on the highway.

But I am fully prepared to play with this the rest of the summer, lol.

 

With nothing better to do on a beautiful day here in SE Texas, I decided to fiddle with tire pressure and rear shock settings and get a little wind-therapy at the same time. Now I'm a little heavier than average at 210lbs and heat induced pavement buckles are pretty prevalent this time of year so my backside needed help.
With preload set to #3 and 2.25 turns out on the rebound, things are WAY better over all but one spot on my commute. I may need to fine tune a bit but feel I'm pretty close.
As for tire pressure, for right now I'm all pavement so given my weight I went with the oft recommended 36F/34R and that combined with the tweaked rear shock settings made an already good bike that much better.
I've already got a set of Anakee Adventure tires on the way, ready for when the stock tires are done and from what y'all have said, that won't take long and we'll see how much better the road manners get.

 

With your body weight (no offense….I’m the same ) you can crank the rear shock pre-load setting to 5 and it still won’t be enough.
If you want a cheap suspension upgrade….the Top Gun 7.4 spring & progressive fronts have really transformed my bike.
Now my rear shock pre-load setting is at 1, with plenty of wiggle room if I load er down heavy.

With that extreme Texas heat, you’ll definitely want to run higher tire psi to help prevent inner tubes heat-welding to the innards of the tires. Been there done that, when I used to run a rear tire psi of 30ish. Learned my lesson on that one…..luckily without catastrophe

Your 36F/34R should be fine….although my front/rear numbers are swapped from yours. Do what works best for you.

 

I always read the tire and stick to within 2 psi below and never over. Therefore with my Shinko 705s I run at least 34 all round. This keeps up some really good dry traction with some room to heat up a lot on a hot day.

Tire temperatures change the psi almost constantly, people will notice maybe 4 psi at most just from the range that your tires get to. I remember reading my temps after a 70 mile ride at 80 degrees and I got like 40 psi after filling them to 34 psi before the ride. I kinda panicked and drained them a bit, measured them to 32 psi after they cooled down.

Ofc offroading is a completely different scenario. Having a pressure that works for both onroad and offroad seems like a bit too much of a compromise to me. A 12 volt air compressor might work if you're really dedicated to having the right tire pressure at all times, but I wouldn't trust my battery to keep up.

Using your tires as a suspension component is the wrong way to think about it. If anyone really needs better suspension then upgrade it. Looking at maybe 1/4 inch worth of movement out of softer tires, and at worst damaging rims to get 1-2 inches of movement out of a tire flexing.

 

Ofc offroading is a completely different scenario. Having a pressure that works for both onroad and offroad seems like a bit too much of a compromise to me. A 12 volt air compressor might work if you're really dedicated to having the right tire pressure at all times, but I wouldn't trust my battery to keep up.

Using your tires as a suspension component is the wrong way to think about it. If anyone really needs better suspension then upgrade it. Looking at maybe 1/4 inch worth of movement out of softer tires, and at worst damaging rims to get 1-2 inches of movement out of a tire flexing.

Too much of a compromise? ......a dual purpose motorcycle is nothing BUT compromise. While I heartily endorse the recommendation to upgrade the suspension, it is imperative to have reasonable tire pressures offroad or even good suspension won't hook up......just the way it is.

Dave

 

I'm lazy so I pick a compromise pressure that works on both street and trail, recognizing that my pavement use is limited to local roads and very short freeway jaunts - 22-24F and 20-22 rear works for me on my MT21 fronts/D606 rears.....decent offroad performance and acceptable on the street.

2 cents,
Dave

 

gosh another tire pressure thread. blacked out, and just woke up . . . . the other day I got out for a nice 40mile ride, but realized both tires were on the soft side giving a degree of squirreliness. I found the Caseys in Downtown Carver had a handy air hose. in two minutes I had both front and rear in the 30 odd psi range. (no gage) harder than when I started that day. rode away and was happy . . . . . ride safe. line6

 

If you don’t run the recommended 36F/34R, you’ll be shunned here

 

I've been shunned for a while. LOL! I run 28/31 F/R. Off road I run 20/20. Last trail ride I took out more air up front to 18 psi and man that felt really good especially on the silt like dirt areas. On the hard packed rocky section the bike gave a nice ride. I wasn't going fast though to avoid pinch flats or a dented rim.

 

I got my KLR650 yesterday.. 25 miles on it. I checked and saw that the dealer put 21PSI front and back.

 

That's what the manual says

 

I live off a long dirt/gravel road and driveway... 26-28 felt quite a bit more stable on that kind of terrain.

 

After watching this thread for a while I'm completely confused. I ran the permutations. I believe there are 122 combinations if you constrain the PSI values to 18 < PSI <30.

 

After watching this thread for a while I'm completely confused. I ran the permutations. I believe there are 122 combinations if you constrain the PSI values to 18 < PSI <30.

I would like to say to these combinations, each and every one of you are unique and wonderful, and I believe you will accomplish great things! And now I would like to present each of you with a Tire Pressure Participation Trophy...
Finally, for those of you higher pressures, 30 and above, who did not receive a trophy, I don't want to hear about your "High Pressure Privilege".

 

Three semesters of college differential calculus and trigonometry and I still Google for calculators 😱

 

According to Avogadro's theory of special tire relativity, tire pressure takes "Quantum Jumps" from one pressure to another. Regardless of what your tire gauge tells you there are only whole pressure numbers inside a tire. Additionally, you can't really tell what the pressure is inside the tire until you measure it, meaning there is a probability that it is either over or under inflated until you measure at which point the probability that it is either over or under inflated collapses into a measurement you can read on your gauge. Before that it is neither over or under inflated. Of course, that leads to the possibility that upon measuring it, reality splits into two dimensions. In one dimension the observer (you) sees the tire as under inflated while the other (also you in another dimension) sees the tire as over inflated.

See how tricky it all is?

I think I'll start a thread about pressure gauge accuracy.

 

Damn, I quit. 🤣