PDW Oil Flow Mods, order of importance.

pdwestman · Dec 4, 2015

I can only give you all, my suggestions.
#1,
Like sooo much else about the KLR650, it doesn't seem to care 'in which order'! But it does seem to respond well to Mods.

#2,
Thermo-Bob, Thermo-Bob 2 or Thermo-Bob 3. Or Normk's DIY radiator by-pass system. All with 185-195F. thermostats. Get the Entire engine as warm as you can, as Quick as you can.

#3,
Remove the clutch cover and clean the pre-screen if need be. It has been recommended for longer than I've been on the internet forums. I inspected/cleaned mine (1987) at 64,000+ miles, near nothing in it!

#4,
Had to remove the clutch cover to do #3. May as well do some More, eh!
Lap the Pressure Relief Valve. I didn't want to risk LOW rpm oil VOLUME to ANY where, at ANY rpm.

#5,
Re-spring the Pressure Relief Valve. I did it for 2 reasons. Reduce Possible Max pressure to the crankshaft and to Protect the 0-15 PSI Camshaft Banjo oil pressure gauge installed on my dash.
I'm at 21 PSI. Tom S. and Clark L. are set a 28 psi. Normk may set his a 'little Higher'.
But if one is going to use a low psi camshaft banjo oil pressure gauge, you're going to have to do something!
I had recorded as much as 22 psi on a 68f. day, cold start at 1700 rpm, (at the Camshaft Banjo) with partial mods (banjo bolts only).

#6,
This is the Biggest One. And you DO NOT have to do it to your Bike, and yet still benefit 90% from ALL of the rest of the mods, IMO only. The one I had not even envisioned, until everything else was done. Thanks to all of YOU.
Modify the Oil Filter Cavity for 100% Oil Filtration! Now that we know that it can be done!!!
('Left Click' on the Hi-Lite. For newbys)

OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?

What year are you riding? How many miles? What oil (be specific) you useing? HERE is the BIGGEY, WHAT TEMPERATURE? I've found that maybe the best place to measure temperature, is the center of the oil filter cap, with a infrared thermometer. Can do it while riding, with cruise control. Even...

www.klrforum.com

Install a Motion Pro 'Oil Filter Magnet #11-0064, onto the BACK SIDE of the oil filter! The Front side, will Now be DRY!

#7,
Install a Crankshaft Oil Feed 'Oil Flow Control Orifice', smaller than 2.5mm into the 6 o'clock port of the clutch cover or oil filter cap. (EDITED Dec. 8 2021, I have tested down to 2.06mm / .081inch / #46drill with ALL mods done. (With 10W40 OIL! Edited on 10-24-2024)
GO to posting #416 / 2nd pic. direct link wasn't possible

I prefer to install into the Clutch Cover. It 'Eliminates' the leakage from between the filter CAP and the Clutch cover. (This is true, whether one does the 100% filtration mod or the 'relief of the Ledge' mod.)
OIL Pressure, How much Ya got? GO to 6th pic. (old 'relief of ledge' mod)

#8,
Replace or Enlarge the 1st Oil Pipe Banjo bolt by the starter motor.
2 large 1/8th inch holes. (#92150-1641 from 1990's KLX650)

#9,
Replace or Enlarge the Camshaft Oil Feed Banjo Bolt, at the cylinder head.
2 large 1/8th inch holes. (#92150-1641 from 1990's KLX650)

#10,
Replace or Enlarge the Transmission oil feed Banjo Bolt, above the engine sprocket. 1, 1/8th inch hole or 2 smaller #43 holes. (#92153-0627 from 1990's KLF300-C atvs)

Am I over-looking any thing???

With Epoxy filling of the Original Oil Feed port to the oil filter and the notch in the oil filter cap, curing time and dressing of any excess, plan on taking 2 days!

In "Willy's" original thread of "Oil Pressure, How to make it Better?" (on klr650.net), I suggested that ALL of this could be achieved with ONE drill bit size!
I'll now suggest, that the #43, 2.26mm, 0.089 thousands of an INCH drill bit, might be a reasonable 'Choice'. Provided that we 'double cross-drill' the 1st and Camshaft banjo bolts.

How much will it help? Only time and mileage may tell!
I like Q & A, bring it on. I'll answer the best that I know.

OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?

Camshaft Oil Pressure, 2hr ride data

Laboratory Oil Analysis Thread!

Again, I wish to say, The KLR650 doesn't seem to care in which Order things are IMPROVED!!! It just responds well to "Improvements"!

pdw

p.s.,
Tom S.,
You may add/move this posting to the other 3 related threads (your's and mine) as need be.

Damocles · Dec 4, 2015

Excellent cataloging of modification steps.

Can you summarize the cumulative result of all these mods in operational/maintenance/durability/reliability/performance terms?

That is, what does one "get" for the modifications, compared to stock?

Thanks to you and to Tom Schmitz, for taking us along with you on this most interesting journey where you did boldly go, where no man has gone before.

pdwestman · Dec 4, 2015

Thanks Damocles.

Hopefully the mods will help reduce oil consumption in units with faulty rings or worn/high mileage rings. But these mods can not stop oil consumption.

With the #8 and #9 mods it will be possible to monitor oil pressure from the camshaft banjo bolt. And if one desires, these 2 can be your only mods. I could have easily listed them as mods #3 and #4.

Fuel mileage seems to improve 5-10%.

Engine oil may stay cleaner longer.

peacefuljeff · Dec 8, 2015

This is very, very helpful, as I have a 99 that's gulping oil at high RPMs. No external leaks apparent. Tried Vegas Romaniac's idea of 20W50, which he used to some success in the dry high heat of Nevada, while I'm dealing with the humid heat of Louisiana. No joy. BUT, since I've had my Cockroach since only June, and have not done bike maintenance ever (comfortable with tools and wrenching, but no expert on any gas engine), I'm struggling to understand what some of these mean. there is a video for lapping oil pressure relief valves, ironically from one of the contributors of all this oil consumption info, Tom Schmitz. But I'm not allowed to post the link until I make 15 or more posts. :/

pdwestman · Dec 8, 2015

peacefuljeff,
Tom Schmitz is sort of following my lead, sort of like you are.

I've not purchased a camera, nor learned to post photos or videos. I've relied on friends, including Tom to post the pics of my project.
And I'd liked to thank them all again. Nat S., Clark L. and Tom S. thanks again.

As to lapping the PRV, I used a piece of rubber fuel line for a lap-stick. No need to solder a ball to a copper pipe. Sorry, no pic.

May I suggest you try mods 7, 8, 9 and 10. See if or how much they help. You can still do the rest later. And these 4 are easily 'reversible', if desired. Refer to #1!

Tom Schmitz · Dec 8, 2015

peacefuljeff,

Yeah, heavier oil isn't going to do much for you if you have an oil burner.

To recap a bit, the theory that Paul is working on is that much of the oil burning is because there is simply too much oil thrown up on the cylinder walls for the piston's rings to deal with. Since the KLR's bottom end is an open rolling element bearing (much like a two-stroke as opposed to a pressurized plain bearing like in a car's engine) it can survive with very little oil.

Mods 7, 8, 9 and 10 work to reduce the amount of oil delivered to the underside of the piston by directing it to the cams and the transmission and by reducing the flow to the crankshaft.

The PRV is a ball valve where a ball bearing, under spring pressure, is sitting on a seat. It is designed to pop at about 70psi. This is a valve that is used in a large number of Kawasakis and has been in use for decades. By itself, it ain't a bad deal even with the 70psi pop-off, but it is a pretty leaky valve; the manufacturing of the seat hasn't had a lot of attention paid to it. The reason for lapping it is to reduce that leakage and the idea is that it is foolish to waste oil on a leak. It falls in the category of 'good thing to do'. The pump delivers a goodly amount of oil, so wasting some ain't the end of the world, but I think that lapping the thing is pretty easy and there's no reason to shy away from it.

As Paul says, installing the larger banjo bolts and the oil control orifice to the crank will get you 90% of the benefits that doing all the mods will. These are the important ones.

The banjo bolts are pretty easy, though you will have to remove the exhaust header and the starter motor to get at the first banjo (#8 mod).

In #7 Paul refers to the '100% filtration' idea (Mod #6), which is a mod to the cover. The way the cover and cap is designed it is possible for some of the oil to go directly out to the engine without being filtered. That leaky path can also undermine efforts to control the amount of oil going to the crank if you choose to put the control orifice in the cap. This falls into the 'nice to have' category, too.

This video explains what's involved in that mod and also talks about installing the crank oil control orifice.

I have a 2009 that was fixed by Kawasaki for oil burning, which lasted for a while, but it is back to its old ways. I don't have the miles or time on these mods that Paul does but early indications are that my oil consumption is reduced, and perhaps quite dramatically.

Tom

pdwestman · Mar 19, 2016

Tom Schmitz said:
peacefuljeff,

Yeah, heavier oil isn't going to do much for you if you have an oil burner.

To recap a bit, the theory that Paul is working on is that much of the oil burning is because there is simply too much oil thrown up on the cylinder walls for the piston's rings to deal with. Since the KLR's bottom end is an open rolling element bearing (much like a two-stroke as opposed to a pressurized plain bearing like in a car's engine) it can survive with very little oil.

Mods 7, 8, 9 and 10 work to reduce the amount of oil delivered to the underside of the piston by directing it to the cams and the transmission and by reducing the flow to the crankshaft.

The PRV is a ball valve where a ball bearing, under spring pressure, is sitting on a seat. It is designed to pop at about 70psi. This is a valve that is used in a large number of Kawasakis and has been in use for decades. By itself, it ain't a bad deal even with the 70psi pop-off, but it is a pretty leaky valve; the manufacturing of the seat hasn't had a lot of attention paid to it. The reason for lapping it is to reduce that leakage and the idea is that it is foolish to waste oil on a leak. It falls in the category of 'good thing to do'. The pump delivers a goodly amount of oil, so wasting some ain't the end of the world, but I think that lapping the thing is pretty easy and there's no reason to shy away from it.

As Paul says, installing the larger banjo bolts and the oil control orifice to the crank will get you 90% of the benefits that doing all the mods will. These are the important ones.

The banjo bolts are pretty easy, though you will have to remove the exhaust header and the starter motor to get at the first banjo (#8 mod).

In #7 Paul refers to the '100% filtration' idea (Mod #6), which is a mod to the cover. The way the cover and cap is designed it is possible for some of the oil to go directly out to the engine without being filtered. That leaky path can also undermine efforts to control the amount of oil going to the crank if you choose to put the control orifice in the cap. This falls into the 'nice to have' category, too.

This video explains what's involved in that mod and also talks about installing the crank oil control orifice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l927rWUCQQ0

I have a 2009 that was fixed by Kawasaki for oil burning, which lasted for a while, but it is back to its old ways. I don't have the miles or time on these mods that Paul does but early indications are that my oil consumption is reduced, and perhaps quite dramatically.

Tom

Tom S.,
For some unknown reason to me, your video No Longer Works, for me! :frown2: :frown2:
We need it, 'back on line'!

ps, Now that I have posted this, the link in 'Quote' and the original posting 'work' just fine!!

Normk · Dec 8, 2015

The banjo bolts are easy to cross drill to a larger size by just grabbing two flats of the head in a vise and using a hand held power drill. The side which is already drilled will self pilot (drill bit will follow the hole) and line up the other side.

I think Paul may have used different banjo bolts having larger holes and cross drilled already but he can afford the cost out of the money he's saved from not having a camera or posting photos. ;-)

pdwestman · Dec 9, 2015

If one does enlarge the existing banjo bolts by drilling, be very certain to de-burr the Center Hole. Also de-burr the outside so the copper gasket can slide on properly.

I used the KLX and KLF banjo bolts so I could revert to standard if desired!

Tom Schmitz · Dec 9, 2015

I think the KLX and KLF bolts are better. They are nicely chamfered at the cross hole.

There are scads of 600 and 650 bolts in the Shop of Horrors. Stop by if you want some, anybody.

Those holes are so tiny that they are best described as a 'bolt with a leak'.

Tom

pdwestman · Jun 23, 2017

I still get a 'chuckle' everytime I read the last sentence of this post.

Any chance that we might read/see a post Wossner piston install, oil consumption/fuel mileage/performance evaluation/oil analysis Tom?

peacefuljeff · Dec 9, 2015

23.795 DELO 400 15W40 9/16/14? Oil change date?

Tom Schmitz · Dec 9, 2015

I suffer from CRS* and put labels on the bike that remind me of when I changed consumables, with mileage and date.

Tom

*Can't Remember Shit

justjeff · Dec 9, 2015

You can crazy glue the ball to an appropriately sized bolt to make a secure lapping tool. Used to do it all the time when I was a industrial valve technician.
Regards....just jeff

Normk · Dec 9, 2015

How many times are you going to mention this.......before I remember?
(Self face palm)

Thanks again for re-reminding me. That's a trick which I want to remember as have used rubber hose with the problem of the ball popping out, especially where there is a recessed seat.

Funny how having been trained in one way seems to keep one from using a better/alternative technique when it is encountered. Same with cotter pin pullers. I sold hundreds of the spiral hook cotter pin tools when was in the tool business but have never used one to pull a cotter pin. I had one in my tools for a long time but never used it because habit made me reach for side cutters and never thought of the other tool.

peacefuljeff · Dec 10, 2015

ROFL! Good one! Since I don't want to 'cloud up' this important issue, I'm going to delete my question in a few days. Thanks!

pdwestman · Dec 10, 2015

peacefuljeff,
Please DO NOT Delete.

peacefuljeff · Dec 10, 2015

PDWestman: "I have been wanting to ask if your bike is fitted with a Thermo-Bob or other radiator by-pass? I do believe in the importance of my #2 suggestion, for numerous reasons."

No bypass yet, 33K on the odometerof my 1999. But when I get around to it, I'll be doing Norm's DIY bypass, as it will teach me more (hopefully) and certainly increase my mod skills beyond their current very limited comfort zone.

Not sure why you don't want me to delete a question I'm sure is of no relevance to anyone. I was up to about page 8 of the original oil thread, plowing through all the messages in hopes of learning how to fix my oil consumption issue when you posted this much needed and appreciated synopsis. So I'm acutely aware of messages and comments on that thread that were fun at the time, but didn't add to furthering the exploration of oil consumption understanding. But I'll refrain from deleting for now.

Tom Schmitz · Dec 10, 2015

peacefuljeff said:
...Not sure why you don't want me to delete a question I'm sure is of no relevance to anyone. .... So I'm acutely aware of messages and comments on that thread that were fun at the time, but didn't add to furthering the exploration of oil consumption understanding...

a) You asked a question that someone else might wonder about, so it has value.

b) This place is like sitting around a campfire with other people who have the same interests. The discussion takes twists and turns and it all promotes a good feeling. It's just how we roll.

c) Thread-jacking is looked upon as an art form here. On some forums they get real indignant about it. Not here.

We got one guy here who can jack a thread slicker'n The Artful Dodger or Fagin can pick a pocket.

"I've been known to go off the rails a time or two myself", Tom said drunkenly...

Tom

p.s. Truth be told, we have gone back and cleaned up threads when things got too far astray, but it was mutually agreed upon. Still, we would never admonish anyone for asking a question that might be seen as a wee bit off topic or jacking a thread a bit. They are here, they are participating, and we really appreciate that.

peacefuljeff · Dec 10, 2015

Your video is INVALUABLE! I could never have visualized all that from any written description, regardless of how detailed. Even so, I'm definitely not going to be drilling into my case until after I've tried everything else with no or not enough effect. Pucker factor definitely too high for my limited skills!

pdwestman · Dec 15, 2015

peacefuljeff said:
(Tom Schmitz) Your video is INVALUABLE! I could never have visualized all that from any written description, regardless of how detailed.

(Even so, I'm definitely not going to be drilling into my case until after I've tried everything else with no or not enough effect.)

Pucker factor definitely too high for my limited skills!

peacefuljeff and others,
I have been intending to make comment on this posting.

Drilling the clutch cover oil filter cavity for the 100% oil filtration modification has nothing to do with oil consumption or lack there of.

But if your statement is only related to the threading of the crankshaft oil port in the clutch cover we all truly understand that also. I'll suggest that the threading of that oil port is best done with the clutch cover removed for the other mods.

I installed my orifice into the filter cap the first time, for if I may borrow the term from Normk, "Simple, Cheap and Easy" fitment.
Clark L. who bravely offered his 1990 as the first guinea pig to receive ALL of the mods also chose the filter cap location.
(As seen in the pics, in the supplied links of post #1, mod#7.)

justjeff · Dec 11, 2015

Like X10 Tom.
This is one of the best forums on the internet especially for new people. We have toned down a couple of guys over the years for being too hard on newbies. We were all greenhorns at one time. The KLR is a great bike and the pricepoint attracts a lot of beginners. Though my primary dualsport is a KTM 690 Enduro right now, I can't seem to let go of either of my KLR650s.:grin2: I know when the KTM breaks down the KLR will be waiting!:mexican wave:
JJ

Normk · Dec 11, 2015

Anyone can see from Jeff's practical approach that he really does't fit in well. ;-)

Running for cover!:stickpoke:

peacefuljeff · Dec 11, 2015

PD Westman: "In "Willy's" original thread of "Oil Pressure, How to make it Better?" (on klr650.net), I suggested that ALL of this could be achieved with ONE drill bit size! I'll now suggest, that the #43, 2.26mm, 0.089 thousands of an INCH drill bit, might be a reasonable 'Choice'."

For those like me that were finding the #43 drill bit hard to find: Ace Hardware has them, you can find it on their website. Irwin® No.43 High Speed Steel Wire Gauge Drill Bit. I tried to include the direct link, but I haven't posted to this forum enough to have that permission.

Normk · Dec 12, 2015

I ran a retest of the idle speed with and without the restriction in the oil filter cover.

Idle speed (warm) with stock filter cover 1200 RPM
Idle speed with restricted cover 1450 RPM.

I had reported that difference before but had to buy a cover so could switch back and forth to confirm. Definitely less engine drag due to oil from crankshaft. Since the other factors remain the same, I expect that the oil pressure at the pump must increase because of more restriction. This must mean that more oil pump load, due to the higher restriction/elevated il pressure resistance, is counteracting the effect. If the oil pressure were kept the same at the pump, I'd expect a higher idle speed.

As soon as have time to plumb in the gauge Paul sent, I will see if can see that effect.

pdwestman · Dec 12, 2015

Normk,
Now the question on everybodys mind is, is that a Good Thing, a Bad Thing or an Indifferent Thing?

I'll suggest an Indifferent Thing.
It may be solely related to the total Volume of oil to the bottom rod bearing and therefore to the cylinder wall, piston and rings.
Or, it may be related to oil temp being 'warm' instead of 'hot', 194f+?
Or it may be related to set point of PRV and oil temp?
But it seems 'something' is definitely effected.

Sort of like maybe Toms first 1100 miles with 'sort of warm' engine vs his final 400 miles with a fully hot engine. Maybe.

Inspite of this project being over 3 years long, there is still a lot to be learned.

Normk · Dec 12, 2015

It would seem to me that this effect points to a good thing because the only change was to swap the oil filter cover which does not change oil temperature. The bike was at temperature after a ride, I checked idle speed, swapped the filter cover, checked idle speed, replaced the restricted cover, checked idle speed which was the same as before. Oil temperature would not have changed significantly in less than the minute required to swap the covers the first time and would certainly not have reversed this temperature change again during replacement of the cover.

It would seem that this is the same effect as for increased fuel mileage at highway speeds, due to reduced oil to the crankshaft and cylinder walls.

The effects seem to mirror your other reported effects, excepting oil consumption which is moot for idle, especially over such a short time.

peacefuljeff · Dec 12, 2015

I will offer my 99 KLR with 33k on the clock and a prodigious oil consumption problem as a guinea pig for these mods. I am more than happy to do my best to add gauges and otherwise keep track of oil consumption per miles ridden within my limited wrenching skills, which I am happy to expand when possible. I will not be able to attempt the mods that Tom shows in his video anytime soon. The ones to the clutch cover I mean. The oil filter cap I believe I can manage.

pdwestman · Dec 12, 2015

peacefuljeff,
With your admitted limited wrenching experience, I would rather see you do mods #7, 8, 9 and 10. And then go enjoy your riding for a 1000 miles, rather than doing Gauge Readings. Checking oil as often as you have had to in the past and hopefully adding Less.

I believe Tom and I's gauge readings are sufficient enough.

floodedkiwi · Dec 13, 2015

Sub'd

opcorn:

pdwestman · Dec 13, 2015

Post #29 Missing in Action!

Just read e-mail alert of new posting by "peacefuljeff", thought I ought to reply!
It appears to be MIA. Unless is 'appears' while I type this.

Are we having a case of the 'gremlins' again? This post should show up as number 30 or higher.

Anyways peacefuljeff,
All of this info is in the threads which I linked.

You mean "NPT", typo showed MPT.
The 1/4"long, 5/32nd" allan key driven, 1/16th 27 National Pipe Thread (1/16-27 NPT), Brass pipe plugs which I used were purchased from "Fastenall". (Part#80742, 1/16BrssFlshPrssPlug)
Also might be acquired from Heavy Truck repair facilities.

You will also need a 1/16th-27 NPT thread tap.
I'll suggest checking Amazon.com for pipe plugs and thread tap. Purchase 5 or 10 pipe plugs they are cheap, like 50 cents each.
We may go smaller eventually.
I paid dearly for the tap, to shop local.

floodedkiwi · Dec 13, 2015

Normk said:
I used a brass spark plug end. The big end threads nicely to a KLR main jet and the spark plug end presses very tightly into the oil gallery bore in the oil filter cover's oil gallery leading to the crankshaft. I pressed it in using my bench vise and used a slot screwdriver bit as the mandrel to force the jet just below the surface of the cap so that it doesn't catch the bore in the oil filter cavity.

This allows the jet to be changed by simply removing the oil filter cover and allows the restriction to be inspected/cleaned when changing the filter. I do not believe that the restriction can be forced down the oil gallery since the bore in the cover is no aligned with that in the side cover. The amount of press fit interference would preclude oil pressure from moving it, IMO. I cannot force it in further by hand and can apply many times the equivalent PSI which even a blocked oil system could apply.

Just a suggestion as it seemed an easier approach. FWIW, I used a brass spark plug end but now need to find more as several others want this done.

Here are some photos of what I did, FWIW,

That is cool. The brass spark plug end you mention, is that the piece that screws onto the end of the actual plug, that most of the time you remove, or something else? I do not remember seeing a brass spark plug that I am thinking about. :help:

pdwestman · Dec 13, 2015

Guys,
My biggest concern of using a carburetor jet is Over-Torqueing and twisting off the jet! Too many of our less experienced members and non-members manage to strip 12mm oil drain plugs on too regular of basis!

This is the biggest reason (possible stripping or fracturing/breakage of a small brass jet) that I chose to use an 8mm steel set screw in the oil Filter Cap in the very beginning.
If our added part breaks or dislodges and snags in the clutch cover oil port, answer me this. "HOW are we going to get the oil filter cap back OFF?"
Is the head of the chosen part capable of over-restricting the passage if it dis-lodges and gets cross-wise?
Is the head of the chosen part too Small? Can it fall clear into the crankshaft oil port?
I believe I chose a large enough, tough enough part so as No One needed to worry about IT!
These modifications are scary enough even as I did them.

I changed over to the 1/16" Brass pipe plug later, as my preferred suggestion and it can be used in either the oil filter cap or the clutch cover. And I use Loc-Tite blue for either location.

I'll also suggest that brass spark plug nipples are harder to come by these days that 1/16" brass NPT pipe plugs.

Normk · Dec 14, 2015

I don't accept the concern regarding potentially twisting off of a carburetor jet as valid. If one uses that reasoning then no one should use a carburetor jet in a carburetor either since the aluminum threads in the carb are likely to be damaged or the jet twisted off.

I have suggested that using one of the aftermarket of other model choke fittings may be a risk of cross threading because of the fine threads in the carb but that is almost universally rejected.

Carb bowl screws should be rejected since their small size makes damage likely....at some point a base level of competency needs be assumed.

Why would breakage of the "added part" be a concern? If any reasonable level of care is taken, that will not happen. If one does not assume reasonable care then how about stripping of axle nuts from over tightening?

In the unlikely event that the part broke or otherwise lodged, the cap would need to be removed in much the same way as other unusually broken parts, I don't see the issue. Is this really a significant concern?

What if some inexperienced person was to drill the side case and crack the case? Couldn't the crack go undetected? Couldn't the set screw back off and rotate? How will an inexperienced or even experienced person insure that the restriction is not blocked or partially blocked by some undetected material? This is an added risk with any restriction in the oil gallery but an additional concern where the restriction cannot be readily inspected and cleaned.

The head of the chosen part cannot pass the pressed in spark plug cap so it cannot pass beyond it.

Brass spark plug ends are less difficult to find locally than 1/16" pipe plugs, here, as I have verified by finding the brass plug ends. No supplier here even lists a 1/16 NPT plug as available.

The installation of the spark plug end and jet is a simple, thread the plug end and push in. The drilling and installing of a 1/16" NPT plug is a vastly more difficult operation, especially for the inexperienced who may twist of any of the side cover bolts, or (quite likely) snap off the water pump shaft.

Frankly, most of the objections listed appear to be desperate attempts to find objections. If any of the objections is turned around and applied to the original procedure it will be seen to apply to an even greater degree.

I think it's time for me to step away from this thread.

Tom Schmitz · Dec 14, 2015

The 1/16" NPT plug and tap is not common, but is still readily available. The plug doesn't even need to be brass. No, you won't find it at your local hardware store but on-line sellers will have it to your door in a few days.

Frankly, I have never seen a brass spark plug end and I should think that drilling and tapping such a wee part would be challenging.

Far more difficult than tapping the case or the cap. I don't know how many times I've said it, but it seems it bears repeating. The hole in the case and in the cap is already the right size for tapping 1/16" NPT. If you choose to run a tap drill through it you won't pull but a couple thousandths out of the diameter.

Just tap it. Seems easier than drilling and tapping a wee brass part, installing a jet in it, and pressing the assembly into the cap. To Paul's point, if the press fit part does vibrate out of the cap and into the case, then the cap is stuck in the case.

Tom

justjeff · Dec 14, 2015

I think either way is fine.
Here is a link to 1/16" npt taps in Canada....
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/agi/_/N-0?No=12&Nrpp=12&Ntk=Allen&Ntt=1/16"+npt+tap

and the matching plug.... https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/agi/_/N-0?Ntt=1/16"+npt+pipe+plug
pay no attention to the tap on the plug page, it's too much money.
Merry Christmas....Jeff

ps....please shake hands and continue on with this most interesting threads boys!

Tom Schmitz · Dec 14, 2015

Acklands-Grainger Inc.
44667 Yale Rd, Chilliwack, BC V2R 4H3, Canada

https://goo.gl/maps/ckHTtgnQSND2

pdwestman · Dec 14, 2015

Thanks Jeff,
But I need to ask, isn't Stainless Steel harder to hold and drill than Brass, which is a little tougher than aluminum?

You said the tap on the Pipe Plug page was pricey, $44.84 CDN.
Did you all see the discontinued one , below the $14.45 CDN tap?
Ouch!!! $60 +! I did pay less than $50 USD for a tap and a die at the local CARQUEST auto parts.

Link to JEGS, Aluminum plugs.
Allan+drive+pipe+plugs - JEGS High Performance

Link to Amazon, 1/16-27 NPT thread tap.
http://www.amazon.com/Drillco-Carbon-Uncoated-Bright-Chamfer/dp/B00GPDYWYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450110954&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F16-27+NPT+thread+taps

OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?

PDW Oil Flow Mods, order of importance.

OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?

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