[Motogeezer]

I noticed a 5mpg reduction in fuel mileage when using the 16T sprocket

your fuel efficiency will suffer

I would love to hear a scientific explanation of how you can run the same engine at a higher RPM (e.g. more combustion cycles per mile) and get better fuel economy. Maybe it has to do with more climbing? Where I live it's relatively flat. Mostly city vs open highway riding? My riding is mostly open highway.

 

[OCL]

I would love to hear a scientific explanation of how you can run the same engine at a higher RPM (e.g. more combustion cycles per mile) and get better fuel economy. Maybe it has to do with more climbing? Where I live it's relatively flat. Mostly city vs open highway riding? My riding is mostly open highway.

I'm with you on head scratching. Fuel efficiency isn't just about RPM but throttle position, and as you mentioned, terrain (hills). When I went to 16t on my DR650, I found myself always opening that throttle wider (versus stock gearing) to accelerate at the same rate, especially on the highway. Since I live in hilly/mountainous terrain, cruising on the highway always seemed to have rolling hills to climb up and down. So again, big throttle openings to overcome these. All this resulted in lower fuel efficiency.

I live in SoCal, which always looks flat on a map, with huge areas of urban sprawl that are flat. But it's all deceiving, as I don't spend time riding much in the urban sprawl. I'm always outside and beyond it, which means mountainous/hilly terrain. For example, I can ride to the desert and back in less than a day. But it requires climbing up and over mountain ranges.

 

[NorthTxKLR]

It takes Horse Power to get you there but it take Torque to keep you there, so, when you change the gearing to the 16 tooth you will use more HP and T more to keep you there.

 

[AGLyme]

Oh, I added Tusk Panniers

Looks like they hold a ton

 

[KLR-Mule]

Maybe it has to do with more climbing?

MORE engine load can be expected with a 16T. Think of yourself riding a mountain bike in high-gear, peddling up an incline. You’ll want to make it easier on yourself and downshift to a lower gear.
And if you’re fat & weak (like the KLR), it’ll be that much harder! 😂

 

[SirMarksAllot]

the only way YOU will know if you like a 16 is if you try it. minimal expense and easy install.

On my Gen 2, I like the 16t for longer Highway trips. Those 200 rpm less over four or five hours is worth a little less scoot and fuel efficiency. I do love the snappiness of the 15t for around town/light trails. And I have a 14t when I’m doing allot of off-road. With the EM prevailing torque nut, counter sprocket changes are fast. They are a cheap mod, and you may love it. No one on here will begrudge you if you do😉

 

[Motogeezer]

MORE engine load can be expected with a 16T. Think of yourself riding a mountain bike in high-gear, peddling up an incline. You’ll want to make it easier on yourself and downshift to a lower gear.

I don't lug my engine. I downshift when needed so I'm running a lower gear at times than I would with a 15T. Seems like a wash in the RPM department. The main thing is I'm running a lower RPM at highway speed and that's why I see better mileage.

 

[terry_g]

When I bought my KLR new in 2018 I kept track of the mileage. It averaged 55 miles per imperial gallon. Most of my riding is back roads logging roads and a little highway. The speed limit on the highways here are 90 and 100 kph. I installed a 16 tooth sprocket and the MCP carb kit over the winter. I would say acceleration is about the same now with the power gain from the jetting change and the power loss from the gearing change. The mileage is about 54 miles per gallon now.
I prefer the 16 tooth myself.

 

[pnp4041]

I bought my 2018 with a 16T already installed and got ~50 mpg. Did the JD jet mod with snorkel delete and I’m at a consistent 43.

 

[Toddbrown14]

Oh they do for sure.

 

[Toddbrown14]

Do you have to change the chain when you go to 16T?

 

[Belldriver]

No.

 

[Johntheskier]

Do you have to change the chain when you go to 16T?

Adding (or subtracting) 1 tooth no, you do not have to lengthen (or shorten) the chain. If you were adding 3 teeth to the rear sprocket, then yes.

Adding 1 tooth to the front sprocket with out changing chain lengths will just mean that your rear axel will be moving about a quarter inch forward. If you were to subtract 1 tooth your axel would move about a quarter inch to the rear.

 

[SirMarksAllot]

I bought my 2018 with a 16T already installed and got ~50 mpg. Did the JD jet mod with snorkel delete and I’m at a consistent 43.

My 2016 got 50 on average, regardless of sprocket up front. Klx jet kit/snorkel delete and air box mod and I have allot more snappiness and linear power, but 43 mpg avg.

 

[pnp4041]

My 2016 got 50 on average, regardless of sprocket up front. Klx jet kit/snorkel delete and air box mod and I have allot more snappiness and linear power, but 43 mpg avg.

So basically I’m just using more fuel with the JD kit? I won’t bother messing with it until I need new sprockets.

 

[SirMarksAllot]

So basically I’m just using more fuel with the JD kit? I won’t bother messing with it until I need new sprockets.

Yeah, the power gain is fun, and if the Oem setup would have worked with the Yoshi (came with the bike and I don’t have the original muffler) I might would have kept it that way. It was running very lean with the aftermarket exhaust, so I went with the Klx.

 

[MegaMind]

I've had a KLR for a few years, work on it more than i actually ride it. Doing This and that

What i can say about the lurching the OP is experiencing, the bike is probably lurching from a lean condition created by adding a pipe and pulling the snorkel. Might need a dynojet box on it. With your changes you likely lost power, but the sound makes it seem more powerful. very common. A 16 t will correct the speedo nearly perfectly, increase fuel economy, probably won't get rid of the lurching unless i've misunderstood what lurching is.


Terry_g

What carb kit ppl choose makes a huge diff. but gearing also makes a huge difference.The lack of a 6th gear amplifies the problem. I've seen people get crazy high numbers with 16/38 sprockets.

Been mentally tracking mpg values people get with different set ups

US MPG stats per kit (from memory) , 65 mph, results vary widely, compared on STOCK or near stock machines.

EFI KLR 45-50 mpg us
Carb KLR stock - 45-55 mpg us (widely known as overly lean)
Carb KLR with KLX Kit - 35 - 58 mpg us (varies GREATLY user to user which sets off a few flags)
Carb KLR with MCP kit - 45 - 50 mpg us
Carb KLR with Dynojet - 38- 45 mpg us
Carb KLR with JD kit - 43 mpg us (small sample size)

Yes these numbers are not written in stone, let's focus on the big picture not the details. One can surmise that the EFI bikes should be more efficient and accurately fueled than a carb model. EFI's from what i hear run about 48 mpg us for the most part. To me this mean this is where an efficient carb klr should run.

In my own testing, cruising at highway speed with stock gearing and with jetting in the sweet spot (not rich or lean), mcp worked out to 47 mpg

With the evidence at hand, to me, a properly running stock or near stock KLR should get about the same as an EFI klr.

just what i've noticed.

My first post, and i'm just thinking out loud.

 

[Gen3piglet]

My 22 has a solid engine brake, which I appreciate. I suspect that's the lurching you're referring to. I have not done a clutch safety switch bypass as others here have to remedy your symptoms. I still have OEM stock intake/exhaust. I ran mine with the 15t front for almost 10k miles before going to a 16t. Gained an average of 2mpg on my typical highway commute at 65-68mph. Now getting 52-54mpg in the warmer months, 50-52 in the colder(longer warm ups). Lowered the rpms a little (no tach 🤬) and smoother overall. Still plenty of power when needed.

 

[pnp4041]

I've had a KLR for a few years, work on it more than i actually ride it. Doing This and that

What i can say about the lurching the OP is experiencing, the bike is probably lurching from a lean condition created by adding a pipe and pulling the snorkel. Might need a dynojet box on it. With your changes you likely lost power, but the sound makes it seem more powerful. very common. A 16 t will correct the speedo nearly perfectly, increase fuel economy, probably won't get rid of the lurching unless i've misunderstood what lurching is.


Terry_g

What carb kit ppl choose makes a huge diff. but gearing also makes a huge difference.The lack of a 6th gear amplifies the problem. I've seen people get crazy high numbers with 16/38 sprockets.

Been mentally tracking mpg values people get with different set ups

US MPG stats per kit (from memory) , 65 mph, results vary widely, compared on STOCK or near stock machines.

EFI KLR 45-50 mpg us
Carb KLR stock - 45-55 mpg us (widely known as overly lean)
Carb KLR with KLX Kit - 35 - 58 mpg us (varies GREATLY user to user which sets off a few flags)
Carb KLR with MCP kit - 45 - 50 mpg us
Carb KLR with Dynojet - 38- 45 mpg us
Carb KLR with JD kit - 43 mpg us (small sample size)

Yes these numbers are not written in stone, let's focus on the big picture not the details. One can surmise that the EFI bikes should be more efficient and accurately fueled than a carb model. EFI's from what i hear run about 48 mpg us for the most part. To me this mean this is where an efficient carb klr should run.

In my own testing, cruising at highway speed with stock gearing and with jetting in the sweet spot (not rich or lean), mcp worked out to 47 mpg

With the evidence at hand, to me, a properly running stock or near stock KLR should get about the same as an EFI klr.

just what i've noticed.

My first post, and i'm just thinking out loud.

The stat for the JD kit is spot on. I have been carefully measuring at the pump for the past year. I have hard panniers if that matters too.

 

[Toddbrown14]

I ordered the JD kit and will install this week. Hopefully that will put it in a non-lean situation now that I have the exhaust, snorkel removed and high flow intake. I also ordered the clutch thing.