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In sprocket related news. The rpm drop from 35-65 mph is very nice. The bike doesn’t lug at all, and take off from a stop is excellent, remember how short first is on these bikes. It feels thankful to have the 15 off for in town and city freeway speeds. 4 th gear at 45 is a thing now. The roll on is a bit slower, but everyone that rides a KLR doesn’t do it to have the bars pulled out of their hands. They probably have a different bike for that, gave it up or are just not into speed wheelies.

I’m very interested to see how the fuel range changes. I’ve been getting excellent range so far. 💸
If you're happy, that's all that matters.

Me, I'm not a big fan of either the 16 tooth front. So I won't even think about a 17 tooth. Either one requires too much slipping of the clutch from a 1st gear take off. If you're taking off on a hill, it's even worse. Off road, on anything but flat terrain, it's a nightmare because even in 1st you're not going to be able to go slow enough in really rough situations without having to slip the hell out of that clutch, or just plowing through and beating the crap out of your suspension. And if you had to take off from a difficult situation...forget it. Not to mention going down a steep, loose hill. Bike will just careen down that hill in 1st and you'd be on those brakes trying to slow it down!

You also mentioned it's more sluggish with roll on power. And you're probably going to need a fistfull of throttle just to get over a long hill on the interstate or overcome some head winds. You do that with stock gearing, with a 17t....I can't imagine...WOT?

The stock gearing is the absolute best overall gearing for this bike's mission. It was designed to not only be a capable long distance bike, it also has to handle some pretty rough off road terrain. The engine can easily handle the revs at highway speeds.
 
Either one requires too much slipping of the clutch from a 1st gear take off. If you're taking off on a hill, it's even worse. Off road, on anything but flat terrain, it's a nightmare because even in 1st you're not going to be able to go slow enough in really rough situations without having to slip the hell out of that clutch, or just plowing through and beating the crap out of your suspension. And if you had to take off from a difficult situation...forget it. Not to mention going down a steep, loose hill. Bike will just careen down that hill in 1st and you'd be on those brakes trying to slow it down!
You completely miss the point. The 17 tooth sprocket is for long distance highway speed travel. And it is just fine for that. Nobody said anything about using it offroad.
Once you arrive at your destination you change to your favourite flavour sprocket.
 
You completely miss the point. The 17 tooth sprocket is for long distance highway speed travel. And it is just fine for that. Nobody said anything about using it offroad.
Once you arrive at your destination you change to your favourite flavour sprocket.
No I didn't miss the point. No I don't want to change out sprockets during a ride. Why? When the bike is already capable on the highway and off road with stock gearing? How fast do you want to ride on the highway? 75 mph? 80 mph? The '22 KLR with stock gearing is totally fine at those speeds. It's relatively smooth and the engine won't come apart sitting at 5k to 5.5k RPM for long periods.

The OP said he plans to commute and camp. By camping I assume he's going to ride off road to a campsite. Regardless, I said if he's happy than that's all that matters.
 
In sprocket related news. The rpm drop from 35-65 mph is very nice. The bike doesn’t lug at all, and take off from a stop is excellent, remember how short first is on these bikes. It feels thankful to have the 15 off for in town and city freeway speeds. 4 th gear at 45 is a thing now. The roll on is a bit slower, but everyone that rides a KLR doesn’t do it to have the bars pulled out of their hands. They probably have a different bike for that, gave it up or are just not into speed wheelies.

I’m very interested to see how the fuel range changes. I’ve been getting excellent range so far. 💸
I'm sure You will like the 16tooth also! I'm thinking the 16tooth front and a 41tooth rear would be a perfect hwy combo for me or Maybe just the 17tooth front? Then the Speedo would be wrong again is the only problem. The speedo is perfect with the 16tooth front now! With the 15tooth front I hated my Speedo saying I was going 75mph and I was REALLY only going 68 mph. ( It's like 10% off)🤣👎 People constantly passing me... & The tractor trailers running 80mph where I'm at passing me TOO when I'm running "80 mph"👎... so I'd have to be going 90 mph+ on the Speedo just to keep up and beyond that to pass... ENGINE WINDING OUT No thanks. Now My 90 mph + and I'm passing everyone! and as an added bonus the bikes rpms are lower?!?! Perfect IMO! It's an AWESOME upgrade for some of us!
Lead follow or get outta the way 💪😎👍
 
One can Dremel Tool the plastic Sprocket Cover to Take the alternator & ignition Wires Straight UP out of harms way of the chain & sprocket, then across to the oil pipe banjo bolt. I split the sheath (and re-tape) to keep the Neutral Wire in the original engine case groove.
 
One can Dremel Tool the plastic Sprocket Cover to Take the alternator & ignition Wires Straight UP out of harms way of the chain & sprocket, then across to the oil pipe banjo bolt. I split the sheath (and re-tape) to keep the Neutral Wire in the original engine case groove.
Wile E Coyote You Genius!!!
 
Has any one gone to a 17 yet? I have one coming from Eagle Mike. I’m using the bike 80/20 to commute and camp.

This is my first KLR. Why I waited so long to get one is what I ask myself every ride.

Also, I’m a newbie here, so go easy on me to start…
Seems like if the 16t front isn't tall enough, dropping a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket would be easier than cutting plastic.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Seems like if the 16t front isn't tall enough, dropping a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket would be easier than cutting plastic.
It took 30 seconds to cut the plastic. Changing a rear sprocket takes much longer and a purchase. The 17 is perfect. The bike really rolls down the road and the mileage has improved dramatically. 340 plus miles on two tanks so far. The revs are way down and the motor response is great.
 
It took 30 seconds to cut the plastic. Changing a rear sprocket takes much longer and a purchase. The 17 is perfect. The bike really rolls down the road and the mileage has improved dramatically. 340 plus miles on two tanks so far. The revs are way down and the motor response is great.
What's your average MPG with the 17t mixed riding of city and highway?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
What's your average MPG with the 17t mixed riding of city and highway?
[/QUOTE/

60-62mpg on the last two tanks. There was approximately a 1/2 gallon still in the tank.

60/40 highway to city. Fairly flat terrain, 70-75mph avg on the highway using GPS.
 
It took 30 seconds to cut the plastic. Changing a rear sprocket takes much longer and a purchase. The 17 is perfect. The bike really rolls down the road and the mileage has improved dramatically. 340 plus miles on two tanks so far. The revs are way down and the motor response is great.
I thought the throttle response was absolutely awful with the 16T on my gen 3 klr.
Most of my riding is in high altitude, and the 16T wasn’t cutting it without using gobs of throttle almost all the time.
There’s a long stretch of highway that branches out in 2 lanes that I use to pass cars often. It’s all uphill. With the 16T, I was unable to gain speed much past 70mph in 5th gear. With the 15T, it’ll top out at ~80mph on the same stretch.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
I thought the throttle response was absolutely awful with the 16T on my gen 3 klr.
Most of my riding is in high altitude, and the 16T wasn’t cutting it without using gobs of throttle almost all the time.
There’s a long stretch of highway that branches out in 2 lanes that I use to pass cars often. It’s all uphill. With the 16T, I was unable to gain speed much past 70mph in 5th gear. With the 15T, it’ll top out at ~80mph on the same stretch.
I thought the throttle response was absolutely awful with the 16T on my gen 3 klr.
Most of my riding is in high altitude, and the 16T wasn’t cutting it without using gobs of throttle almost all the time.
There’s a long stretch of highway that branches out in 2 lanes that I use to pass cars often. It’s all uphill. With the 16T, I was unable to gain speed much past 70mph in 5th gear. With the 15T, it’ll top out at ~80mph on the same stretch.
Okay. Fuel Injected bike cutting out at altitude? Mine has run perfectly above 10 feet, with the 17. I get it, you don’t like anything except your 15. Moving on…
 
Okay. Fuel Injected bike cutting out at altitude? Mine has run perfectly above 10 feet, with the 17. I get it, you don’t like anything except your 15. Moving on…
Who said my bike was cutting out at high altitude? Re-read my post.
 
I thought the throttle response was absolutely awful with the 16T on my gen 3 klr.
Most of my riding is in high altitude, and the 16T wasn’t cutting it without using gobs of throttle almost all the time.
There’s a long stretch of highway that branches out in 2 lanes that I use to pass cars often. It’s all uphill. With the 16T, I was unable to gain speed much past 70mph in 5th gear. With the 15T, it’ll top out at ~80mph on the same stretch.
Not to be that guy brother ✌,
but at "80mph" with a 15t you are really only going maybe 72mph.
With a 16t if it says 70mph you are actually going close to 70mph.( I know you already know that the speedo is corrected not trying to be condescending) sounds like only a 2mph difference tho? I 100% get your point. Especially in your environment the 16t is wrong. For sure! To me tho, except for the rpms The biggest change is only in what the Speedo SAYS. IMO due to the 7-10% Speedo error. Before it just made me think I was going faster.
Now the Speedo says I'm going slower but I'm not.
Again no argument at all about off road technically challenging stuff for you guys in the mountains... Or just riding up into the mountains would absolutely suck with a 16t or 17t 👍. Not the right fit at ALL. In my case though I'm not even slipping the clutch with mine on take off or anywhere. And my throttle response is the expected 35hp 🤣 I also don't have big mountains here in Texas just hills. I can see your point and it's valid! In the sierras I would put my 15t back on. Might even take a 14t with me too😎👍 Seems like it All Depends on location and use

& that Speedo is a damn liar bro😎👍
 
It's possible if you're riding a KLR mostly on flat terrain, 16t is totally adequate.

In my part of Kalifornia, there's just very little flat terrain except in the desert. Even then, to get to the desert requires a lot of hilly, mountainous terrain to cross. Even the interstates have to cross over mountain passes. I ride a lot in the San Diego County area and there's rarely any flat terrain there. So I get the impression KLR's that live in California or any other mountainous area work harder with its 35 rwhp.
 
I’ve found that anything above a 15T is not very doable in mountainous terrain. When I’m taking about mountain terrain, I’m referring to steep inclines at or above 7,000ft elevation. At that elevation, your engine has lost ~30% of its rated horsepower.
Try doing that on a fully loaded klr that’s equipped with a 17T sprocket, and report back :ROFLMAO:
 
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It's ok in mild to moderate hill country😎👍
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I’ve found that anything above a 15T is not very doable in mountainous terrain. When I’m taking about mountain terrain, I’m referring to steep inclines at or above 7,000ft elevation. At that elevation, your engine has lost ~30% of its rated horsepower.
Try doing that on a fully loaded klr that’s equipped with a 17T sprocket, and report back :ROFLMAO:
dude…
 
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