the em klx kit needle/jet etc will markedly improve throttle response, for sure in a gen 1, with out introducing the potential to jack up the drilling which regardless what everyone says, does exist. If you were not going to do the klx stuff, then the 22c drilling would be the next best budget move.

klx, uni and cam advance will really knock your socks off as long as you keep in mind it's a klr. This is a remarkable improvement for what a klr is. Should've come like this from the factory. Gen 1 i speak of. Another buddy did it to his Gen 2. Also stated very positive results but not as profound as a gen 1.

When you talk to eagle mike, ask all these questions, since he pretty much pioneered the exhaust cam advance, as far as i know.

Also, where are you located? If you were in my area for example, i'd be happy to help.

and regarding Flash above...have you done the doo, plan on it?


EDIT: nevermind, see your location, could be inmates up there happy to help.

 

And one of the best tutorials I've seen........

http://www.leftcoastklrs.com/balancer_lever_upgrade.htm

 

For clarification....Drilling the slide has nothing to do with jetting the carb properly.
Some people drill the slide (no bigger than 7/64") which will improve throttle response. Some people leave it alone and are very satisfied with it. If you drill the hole too large, it may induce slide flutter, the slide actually bouncing up and down at a steady throttle setting. If you get it wrong when drilling you can fill the hole and redrill to the correct size. A new slide assembly is about $35 if you really mess up or damage the diaphragm.
Good Luck if you accept this mission.....justjeff

P.S. I have Two KLRs, A Gen1 and a Gen2. The Gen2 slide is drilled, The Gen1 is not. Both work well.
jj

 

be sure to post what he tells you since you're not alone on this i'm sure. Good luck.

 

At the very bottom of the webpage.

 

does any one know the contact number for eagle mike

 

thanks bud

 

Seriously, the EM kit is simple and effective plus you can call and speak with him directly with any concerns or problems.

http://www.eaglemike.com/KLX-jet-kit-KLXJK.htm

 

So, if you were to buy the KLX needle kit, it comes with 3 mains I think....I run most of the bikes here at roughly sea level with 145 main and the clip on the 3rd slot. Seeing as you are at 1800 I would try the 142 main and set the clip on the 2nd slot as Mikes recommends....also set your pilot jet screw to 2 turns out from gently seated. I personally would drill the slider to 7/64ths regardless of what anyone says.
Adjusting the carb is as simple as rotating it enough to get to either the top or the bottom. After undoing the choke fitting on the left side and loosening the boot screws it should turn easily and allow you to change the main and also adjust the clip to maybe the 3rd slot.....You should take the carb off for the initial installation etc, imho, just to make life easier for you.....You can do it without rmoving it but it will be easier to drill the plug for the pilot jet screw while it's off the bike.
OH yes don't forget the UNI airfilter.....to finish the set up.

It's your bike and your call....this is just my advice for what it's worth.

 

ok thanks I would go with that but I really like to get some good in put on other kits as well im sure someone out there tried something stage 1 or 2 my elevation is 1800 above sea level crazy thing is when you get these kits it comes with 3 or 4 neddle jets a bunch of mains and pilots I like to have a sure combo that I can put in and not have to take the carb off or change things a bunch of times so if someone out there got a good combo let me know

 

Your bike, M. S. !

My riding partner has 55,000 miles on his '08; performed the 22-cent mod early on, but restored the carb to stock condition soon after. He's satisfied with performance, and reports better fuel mileage with un-shimmed needle (he MAY have left the slide vacuum port enlarged).

Full disclosure; I have the 22-cent mod, one # 4 washer needle shim on my Generation 1, and I'm satisfied with the change (starts and runs fine; mileage in the high 40's, mpg wise).

Since you changed the exhaust, you may want to look at your main jet (lower exhaust restriction may want a larger-diameter main jet). Shimming your needle should do no harm, IMHO; one or two # 4 washers (I think they're between 0.025 and 0.035 inches thick; Google would confirm) shouldn't hurt anything, and the operation's not precision-sensitive, IMHO. Raising the needle merely fuel-enriches the mixture in mid-range operation.

Drilling the slide seeks to improve throttle response, by enhancing the vacuum port. If you don't like it, you can J-B Weld it back and re-drill.

Best wishes on any hop-up/modification you decide to execute; you're the only one to satisfy!

 

Reading these replies, perhaps I'll have to start learning how to actually do mechanical stuff (I'm a mechanical imbecile) and get the KLX kit for Chaos.

Hmmmmm.........

 

Only FEAR and COMMONSENSE holding YA back!!:stickpoke:
jj

 

Excellent advice from Jeff!!!! Plus drill slider side hole to 7/64ths NO larger. And a UNI air filter.

 

eagle mike suggests not drilling. I didn't drill, my buddy did. Both gen 1's, both uni, both klx kit, both exhaust cam advance. Butt gauge = no noticeable difference, however these mods really wake the bike up.

Good luck and another +1 on the klx kit.

 

The better mod is the KLX needle kit from Eagle Mike. It provides an adjustable KLX needle and jets to tune the engine with. The KLX needle is tapered providing correct fuel metering throughout the throttle range. The factory KLR needle is stepped to provide lean fuel mixtures at part throttle to meet Government emission regs then provides a very rich mixture near wide open to prevent lean detonation at full throttle. Hardly conducive to proper engine function.
Here's the link:

http://www.eaglemike.com/KLX-jet-kit-KLXJK.htm?categoryId=-1

Poke around on the site. Lots of interesting stuff there.

Best Regards....justjeff