I’m assuming you’re currently on stock gearing.? Impossible to change to get just one gear. Try a 14 tooth up front. Fronts are cheaper than the rear. I generally found that for the riding you described stock gearing works best.

 

Thanks and yes, stock on the 2022.
I'm finding that I'm revving first more than I like but then bogging 2nd as I try to pick my way through pothole fields and rock gardens.
That said, I've only had it 1300 miles so maybe my pace will increase making 2nd a better fit.

 

You probably won’t be happy with the 16T for off-road use. Just took mine off.

For me, the best combo seems to be the stock gearing. I can go on all sorts of severe off-road terrain, and blast down the highway at 70-75 mph if I need to.

If your comfortable cruising @ 60mph most of the time, the 14T sprocket may be a good option for you. But….your speedometer will be very in accurate.

 

You probably won’t be happy with the 16T for off-road use. Just took mine off.

For me, the best combo seems to be the stock gearing. I can go on all sorts of severe off-road terrain, and blast down the highway at 70-75 mph if I need to.

If your comfortable cruising @ 60mph most of the time, the 14T sprocket may be a good option for you. But….your speedometer will be very in accurate.

Thanks for you feedback. Something to mull over and consider.

So far I'm doing everything I can to avoid fast roads/freeways. Mostly 35-55 as I commute to the trails, with the occasional stint on the freeway at 60 to reach ones further away.

Maybe after I really get to know the bike I'll have a better understanding of how it wants to be ridden. First impressions is seated on fast forest roads is clearly how they designed it.

Playing dodge em with rocks and potholes is what has be wondering about something in between.

 

I see. It will sound like a bit of "chugging" in 2nd below 22 mph. It's normal for a thumper. As long as it's not shaking like crazy as it tries to pull a taller gear.

Try 44 tooth rear. I do think with these 5-speeds, it's better to change 1 tooth at a time at the rear. Changing the front is too great of a step change and you end up with too much compromise that is not optimal and you end up with too much down low or too much on top. But that's just my opinion. There are those who love the 16T or the 14T.

 

I see. It will sound like a bit of "chugging" in 2nd below 22 mph. It's normal for a thumper. As long as it's not shaking like crazy as it tries to pull a taller gear.

Try 44 tooth rear. I do think with these 5-speeds, it's better to change 1 tooth at a time at the rear. Changing the front is too great of a step change and you end up with too much compromise that is not optimal and you end up with too much down low or too much on top. But that's just my opinion. There are those who love the 16T or the 14T.

Ok thanks. I'm a bigger fan of changing the rear just from the simplicity sake of it.

As you say, I am still operating in the realm that I am still learning what the bike likes/wants as much as anything else.

 

Yes I need a shorter 1st for starting in sketchy spots and a stronger 2nd gear at low speeds. I'm considering a 14 as well

 

I have 14's, 15's and 16's as well as 43 and 44 rears.......the 14's are nice offroad and the 16's are nice on longer highway runs....but the 15's work for both and I'm lazy so they get the most use for my "offroad centric" riding. It also depends on the trails and speeds you ride; I spend most of my time in 2nd and 3rd

Dave

 

Right now I'm mostly riding slightly technical stuff around 12-18mph (picking my way through bombing run pothole fields and embedded rock and ruts) so 1st but that can seem revved out a bit but if I shift into 2nd at 18-20 just sounds brutal (which might be normal, I'm new to singles so fully understand it might just be my context.)

Commuting on the forest roads to and from those areas is 30-40 so no problem there.

 

I regularly carry this kit, though the packaging has changed, in case I feel the need to change gearing. With flippable swingarm axle plates to make it less fiddly to keep the chain slack correct, I can do a swap in just a few minutes.

Normally I run the 16 tooth. With the KLR600 primary that's equivalent to running a 15 on the front.

 

I regularly carry this kit, though the packaging has changed, in case I feel the need to change gearing. With flippable swingarm axle plates to make it less fiddly to keep the chain slack correct, I can do a swap in just a few minutes.

Normally I run the 16 tooth. With the KLR600 primary that's equivalent to running a 15 on the front.
View attachment 33146

That is really interesting. I mentioned in another response that I'd never think about doing this kind of swap on the fly.

 

I've logged 88,000+ miles on my '87 KLR650 with the stock 15 / 43 sprocket combination.
From ROCKY Wyoming, Colorado, Idaho, Montana 4x4 routes, desert dirt/gravel roads, sand washes, mud and 10's thousands of miles of lonely asphalt at Interstate speeds & beyond.

I wear silicone Hearos ear plugs, inserted Deeply! Usually even on the faster dirt & gravel (40-90mph) roads.

 

I've logged 88,000+ miles on my '87 KLR650 with the stock 15 / 43 sprocket combination.
From ROCKY Wyoming, Colorado, Idaho, Montana 4x4 routes, desert dirt/gravel roads, sand washes, mud and 10's thousands of miles of lonely asphalt at Interstate speeds & beyond.

I wear silicone Hearos ear plugs, inserted Deeply! Usually even on the faster dirt & gravel (40-90mph) roads.

Embrace the chug!

 

I’m regularly riding trails. When at a speed where 1st gear is reving to high but second is bogging, a little clutch work does the trick real nicely.

I stay in second, pull the clutch (fully engaged) get over or around the obstacle with momentum, and let the clutch out smoothly with a little extra gas, still in second. Real smooth. Don’t feel like I’m hurting anything (clutch). Please tell me if you think I’m wrong!

 

I've given the OEM clutch plates plenty of work-outs in the same manner in 1st & 2nd gear over the past 89,000+ miles.
Still going strong.

 

I was running a 16t sprocket on my 1998 on the WABDR last week and toasted the clutch going up a particularly rough patch—“baby head hill.” I weigh 225, plus riding gear, plus about 25 lbs of bags and equipment. But I abused it pretty badly going up that hill. I need to get a 14t sprocket before doing anything like that again. Better yet, I ain’t taking a KLR up that patch again. I’ll do it on a lighter bike, but not a KLR.

The clutch adjustment changed substantially as the clutch got hot and wore/burned the fiber lining. If your clutch adjustment didn’t change, then it’s probably fine.