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KLR master cylinder repair and or refresh?

3K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  Timlang60  
#1 ·
Just yesterday I fixed the problem with my wife's Yamaha where the front brake was binding and getting hot and stuck (fixed by throwing water on it and riding home without using the front brake) I thought that the cause was in the calliper but it turned out it was caused by the master cylinder. So, replaced the parts needed and all good. Now got me thinking if I should refresh the master cylinder(s) on my 2008 KLR which have never been touched and I have a friend coming from the US next month (can't get parts in the country where I live) so an opportunity to get the parts...thoughts?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Get a new set of seals for the MC and have them as a cheap insurance that they will never be needed ... :)
so true..I have a lot of spares like that...new cam chain and guides for my Honda XR 200 (which I will probably need in 2032) and others - brake calliper rebuild kits, OEM petcock rebuild kit etc....I sleep better knowing they are in my tupperware container...
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
If its working good, the only thing i would do is flush the brake system .
Sound advice -I will do that over the Crazy Christmas period... can't really do too much of that kind of maintenance on these old girls - my 2008 is 15 years old now...at least KLR wheel bearings are lightyears better than BMW GS 800s...
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The manual calls for an overhaul every 4 years. It is really necessary.
After an overhaul you'll quickly realise the brakes weren't working as good as you thought.
Thanks! Any further details on what a master cylinder overhaul involves would be hugely appreciated - I just put a new rotor and brake pads on the front and the front brake is still shit - maybe that is due to the master cylinder?...got me thinking...and thats usually dangerous! (I don't have the manual)
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks to all who replied with advice - especially Belldriver who advised that the KLR manual recommends master cylinder overhaul every 4 years - I am going to order the parts for both front and rear masters from RockyMTV today. Have a great Chrissy break!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
You can get the piston(s) out using hydraulic (if still attached to the brake line) or air pressure. Personally, I prefer to do it with air pressure, on the workbench. Stack cardboard between the piston and the back guards, apply pressure, and the pistons will emerge. Remove some cardboard, apply pressure, they (or it) will emerge more. In a dual piston caliper, one piston will often want to stick. To counteract this, selectively use more cardboard under the easily movable piston to prevent it coming all the way out and bleeding off the pressure. Once the sticky piston has been fully removed, the more easily (and mostly removed) piston can generally be easily removed the rest of the way by hand.
Yes - I have started leaving the calliper on the brake line and pumping them out hydraulically - took me a while (years) to figure it out though - thanks for you input!