I installed one on my KLR last year. I had a near miss with someone in a Honda Civic who turned across my lane without looking.
I'm pretty sure the larger disc saved me.

Terry

 

I have the steel brake line, just need an SV left side caliper I guess . On the lookout for that.
Just came back from a little night ride and I'm very pleased with it

 

the caliper makes at least as much difference as the rotor does; I highly recommend it. Good news is that the rotor is the most expensive part of the upgrade

Dave

 

What brake disc is that? I got an EBC kit for my second gen KLR, and after installing the disc and the EBC bracket, the wheel no longer can rotate. Bit of a flaw.

 

Complain sternly to the retailer!!

 

What kit did you get? This is a very common mod and it works very well.

You either got some wrong parts or made an error in installation.

 

I used the Wrap 9 parts...

 

I bought the Tusk rotor kit. It came with an aluminium caliper bracket.
I could see problems with the aluminium bracket so I ordered the stainless EM bracket to replace it.
.

 

I got my kit from Procycle, recommended by someone I took a trip with. He had one on a DR650. I made it work with a bit of grinding. Disappointed in EBC though. They would not respond at all to any queries from the retailer or me. Just dead air. Wouldn't use their products again.

 

My Wrap 9 disc and caliper bracket worked perfect on my Gen 1.

 

Thanks for reccomendation. I looked at them but didn't know anything about them. I was offered a Warp 9 to replace the EBC, but I had already made the EBC work, with a little persuasion.

 

GEN 1 - For the record; there are two EBC rotors listed for the KLR; the SM6309C which has reported clearance issues with EM's SV caliper adaptor and the SM6042C which does not. Easiest way to make sure you get the right one is to order it all from Eaglemike. All the people that have had fitment problems ordered the rotor elsewhere to try to save a few $$'s......which ended up costing them.

Gen 2 - 320mm rotor with the stock (relocated caliper) during my search to get these part numbers I noted that if you are using the 320mm rotors with the stock caliper, there is still obviously a bracket that is required to relocate the caliper farther outboard.....this bracket is steel from EBC and aluminum from Tusk as TerryG mentioned above so chose wisely.

 

Did you find the same rotor information for the Gen2? I found only one place (DennisKirk) that listed the SM6309C as applicable to a 2017 Gen2 (it is not). And I found no mention of the SM6042C. EBC itself does not list a 320mm for the Gen2, at least not for the model I have (650EHFL). It's possible/likely the UK model numbers are different, although the fitment is the same.

An EM bracket wouldn't solve anything. It's the disc that has the clearance problem. The EM site doesn't indicate the EBC part number for the rotor. The EBC bracket is now 7075 aircraft grade aluminum.

 

This is from the first EBC site I picked,

KL650E8F/KL650E9F (and UP because the E series front brake is identical for 2008-2018.)

SM6309C Floating Disc, 192.43 inc VAT ( The disc is at the bottom of the page, nuts.)
BRK018 Bracket, 56.78 inc VAT

https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/kawasaki/klr-650-kl-650-e8f-e9f/2008-2009/37316

I did not know it was a UK site until I saw the price tag, I also did not think that the UK even recieved any E model KLR's.

 

I went to that site. I didn't know the E8F and E9F designations were US bikes. (I found Wattman's KLR history page and checked.) So even EBC got it wrong. Did Kawasaki modify the front brake caliper in any way, perhaps in 2014 with the New Edition? The info on the NEw lists the dual-piston brake as a new feature. Perhaps the caliper changed a little. I added aphoto of where the rotor hits the caliper, on the raised flange.

Be well.

 

All Gen2's (2008 - 2018) have dual piston calipers and I'm not aware of any changes.

 

https://eaglemike.com/Caliper-plate-for-320mm-rotor-2008-and-later-320CB8.htm

Dave

 

Whoa, I see from the link that Mike's latest caliper bracket is made from aluminum! The bracket I bought from him several years ago was made from stainless steel, perhaps I should upgrade.

Jason

 

Seldredg,
Here is the break-down of the model ID from 44 years of being in the business. 40 of that in what used to be the "Oldest Kawasaki Dealership in the USA".

Your model ID, KL650EHFL
"K" - Kawasaki, of course. There were KE, KD, KH, KL, KM, KS, KT, KZ etc models.
"L" - Single cylinder 4 stroke dual purpose bikes. Anyone remember the term, "One Lunger" or "Single Lung" engine?
The R in KLR is NOT part of the Actual model number.

"650" - Engine size of course

"E" - The fifth series or design from base model. Now wait a minute, my bike is an "A", "B" is a Tengia, "C" is the skinny fuel tank.
Which country received a "D" model??? Or was it only a prototype, that never went to market?

"H" - is for 2017. This the 10th character in USA VIN's. My 1987 is also an "H". JKAKLEA19HA000***. 1980 was an "A". 2000 was an "Y". 2009 was an "9".
"F" - is for 1st production run, an "S" would be 2nd production run, and a "T" would be 3rd production run.
"L" - is for the California evaporative emissions equipped models. I refer to them as "L"ean & Clean.

So like I said earlier about the EBC front brake parts, all the "E" series or Gen 2's use the same front brake system. If it fits front of 2008 & 2009 it should fit your 2017.

(But others are saying EBC screwed up somehow.)

 

(But others are saying EBC screwed up somehow.)

Yes, they did.

Jason

 

Procycle said they've sold a number of these rotors for KLRs without problems; the last he could remember was a 2013. That made me wonder about the caliper. EBC might have change the specs on the rotor. No way to know.

 

I fitted a Tusk 320mm disc, Tusk pads and a s/s line from Rocky Mountain. it was worse than standard. The pads just did not grip the disc until they got hot. I am in aus not in ice and snow. I talked to the Aus Ferodo distributor and they recommended their Sinter GP pads. wow, What a difference, the thing stops from when I apply the brakes, not 50m down the road. I can now ride at my pace in the bush not worrying if the pads are hot enough to to wash off speed for the corner coming up. Overall the larger disc did give me better stopping power, but I didn't realise the pads lack of initial bite until I went out the bush.

 

Jason beat me to it......I never noticed any of my weight reduction methods (well, OK the battery and crashbar elimination was noticeable) but the aggregate effect is fairly large.

At the end of the day, my KLR's weigh about 380 lbs with a full stock fuel load compared to a typical Gen2 KLR with crashbars, pannier racks, centerstand and heated cup holders which can tip the scales at closer to 460 - 470 lbs.....that 80+ lbs is MASSIVE offroad. In fact, my KLR's are closer to the weight of a KTM690R than they are to the aforementioned "typical" Gen2 KLR....

Dave