Sounds like your crankcase venting is plugged in some way.

 

So, I hate taking things apart until I have at least a vague idea about what I am doing. I assume that black house going from the top of the crank case to the air box is the crank case vent. How would it get plugged? Should I just take the hose off at the air box and see if I can blow through it? I believe my bike, a 2009, has the required Calif. pollution mods. Would this be part of the problem?

 

Did you purchase this bike used?

Any chance that someone installed an automotive PCV valve into the crankcase breather hose, UP-side Down? That could cause a pressure build up.

Stock and standard vent system (just an open hose between nipples) works best on this large single cylinder engine.

The hole going into the air box by the top shock mount is only about 3/16-1/4 inch, if I remember correctly and does have a little foam filter stuffed into the nipple from the Inside! Don't blow it out with compressed air, use your mouth to check flow.

 

I purchased the bike new so I'm sure it does not have a pct valve.

 

I have a 2012 KLR 650 with 4700 miles on it doing my first oil change on it by myself. What oil is recommended? It's getting heated quite quickly. Any pointers are appreciated ASAP please and thank you.

 

Famous00,
I highly recommend the Kawasaki 10W40 Motorcycle oil, Part # K61021-202A. As you can read about in this thread,
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-m...r-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html , left click on the blue hi-lite.

Go to the top upper area of screen and use the drop-down menu of forums, active topics and such.

 

I found the source of your oil leak, sorry.

http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650...08-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/59289-alternator-starter-clutch-assembly.html

 

I blew into the crankcase vent hose. From the bottom into the airbox all was clear and easy to blow into. So, when I blow from the top into the crankcase it is slightly harder, but really not much. When I blow lightly, I can feel air coming out from the gasket where it is leaking oil. It is the top of the second one of those two gaskets on the left side that gives you access to the doohickey spring, etc. I'm considering two options. The first one is to replace the gasket, which would actually require replacing both gaskets to the tune of $40. The second option I am thinking about trying first is to simply coat the housing in the area where the leak is occurring with silicon and see if it will keep the oil in. Any suggestions?

 

Degrease with Brake cleaner or Carb cleaner. Silicone sealant might work. Automotive Goop or Shoe Goo may be stronger.

Permatex Cold Weld epoxy or JB Weld epoxy has worked on leaky center seams for me. Doesn't have to be a very heavy/thick coat. It will chip loose if ever the need be.

 

You might try the Brake Clean Flush followed by an RTV Sealant injection . . . but I fear the odds of that working, or working for any length of time are fairly remote at best. Order the gaskets via eBay and they'll run you about $6 each. I would definitely NOT use any sort of epoxy. The odds of that sort of a band-aid working are only slightly better than the Brake Clean and RTV solution noted above. BUT, if/when it doesn't work; well then, you'll be in a fine pickle. Just try to remove the epoxy without damaging any of the castings when you then try to replace the gaskets because the epoxy patch didn't work out. I would have to be stuck in the jungle, alone, with head hunters chasing me, absent any other alternatives . . . before I'd employ that sort of a fix. A cure that is worse than the disease in my opinion.

 

So, I chose to clean the area well with carb cleaner and go the Automotive Goop route, realizing if that didn't work, I could always pull the covers and put in new gaskets. The Goop seems to have done the job, probably because it was a small leak. I used to use Goop to cure the leaks in my waders when fly fishing. Anyway, this seems to be the end of my oil leaks and I thank you all for your valuable input.