Funny you should ask, I just shortened one today for someone.

BUT.... I'm going to be right up front and say that I used to be an automotive mechanic and have all my own tools, and now that I'm retired, built up my own shop in my garage.
This is ONE WAY to do this, and there are many other ways to accomplish the same thing.

You will need some basic tools, good saw, a welder (or access to one), and grinder.

I took a magnetic angle block for welding and used it to make four straight lines to keep the the angles right. Use a marker or sharpie for the top one at both ends of the scribe.
This will be explained later.

Then I used a punch on one of the lines to mark OUTSIDE the cut area to measure the total cut length.

Then I cut about 7/8" out of the lower portion of the tube. Try to find some pipe or rod the same as the inside diameter to splice it together. I have a metal lathe, so I turned down a piece of solid rod I had laying around.

After cutting the 7/8" out, I used a bench grinder to straighten the edges out, then wire wheeled them. I then drilled three holes in each piece near the edge. Cleaned the inside of the tubes with a sandpaper drum on a pneumatic grinder. That sleeve I made was pretty close to press fit, and should fit into place by hand.
I also drilled out the rod to lighten it up a bit.

Placed the sleeve in place into the lower portion, and welded it into place with rosette welds.

Now here is where the four lines around the shaft you made come into play.
Slide the pieces together and line up your scribe lines being careful to get the color marks lined up.
This will make the angle of the foot pad pretty close to where it was.

Weld up the other three holes, finish off with some light grinding or sanding, and your ready for some paint.

After everything was done, it wound up to be shortened by 15/16".

Hope this helps.

 

I cut the foot off mine and shortened the tube 1" welded the foot back on.
A hacksaw cut a little bit of grinding and its doing its job again.
I removed the switch at the same time.

Terry

 

I believe I am gong to have it done this way. I think it is the strongest way to do it.

 

Very helpful thank you!

 

I did the same as shown (cut 1", grind, smooth and re-welded it, rattle can paint). Have loved it ever since. So much better, highly recommend.

Sammy

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

aside from the methods;

- 1) make sure your sag is set properly first

- 2) to test the amount you want to cut, drive up onto boards of the thickness you are thinking of cutting and see what it looks/feels like. adjust the thickness of the boards/spacers as necessary.


Dave

 

make sure your sag is set properly first? I have seen before, What does that mean?

 

it means adjusting your shock preload to the proper setting. IF you have the preload way too light then it's possible that your static sag is too much and if you cut your sidestand based on that and then correct the sag later, you may find you cut off too much. Probably won't make much difference but since you should set your sag anyhow, you may as well do it before you cut.


https://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm

Dave

 

There may be something about setting the sag if you try a search by the same name.

 

I looked it up. I have never carried a load on this thing. I believe if I take off 3/4 I will still be fine for any adjustments I may have yo make.

 

When I welded mine I did not have my close glasses so I welded it "blind".
Strong enough but not a pretty weld. That is why I did not post a picture of the finished job.

Terry

 

Well, I had 3/4 cut off and it is all complete and back on the bike. The guy that did the work laid the best bead I have ever seen! WOW! And I love the lean of the bike now!

 

That is a thing of beauty, wow!

Enjoy, I know I have mine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk