Did you purchase this bike Brand New or was it a barely used bike?

 

Brand new...

 

The bike feels "top heavy" when it stalls.

All bikes DO!

 

Ride faster!

Actually, isn't it beneficial to bypass the clutch safety switch on a gen 3?

Clutch safety bypass = rides like a different motorcycle | Kawasaki KLR Forum

 

Ride faster!

Actually, isn't it beneficial to bypass the clutch safety switch on a gen 3?

Clutch safety bypass = rides like a different motorcycle | Kawasaki KLR Forum

I didn't find it beneficial. Rode it for a month and put it back to stock.

 

Ride faster!

Actually, isn't it beneficial to bypass the clutch safety switch on a gen 3?

Clutch safety bypass = rides like a different motorcycle | Kawasaki KLR Forum

If anything that would make it worse. The switch raises the idle.

I didn't find it beneficial. Rode it for a month and put it back to stock.

Same. My bike would almost die when I pulled the clutch without the switch functioning. Otherwise I could tell no difference.

 

If anything that would make it worse. The switch raises the idle.

Noted, and amended!

@CanuckOnABike - definitely time to do some clutch friction zone drills, then. And don't be afraid of slipping the clutch a bit - wet clutches are more forgiving than you'd think.

If you're stalling in a corner, I'd suggest that you're going slow enough that you should have pulled the clutch already. You don't want (or need) to leave the clutch engaged as your rpm's drop into lugging territory. The throttle response when you go from idle to 1/2 throttle coming out of the corner is going to be terrible anyway, and could result in lugging or jerky throttle if you leave the clutch engaged.
Slow with brakes (and engine brake if you want), pull the clutch in as the rpm's drop, make your turn, and throttle + feather the clutch out to keep the rpm's in a more ideal range.
If you're that new to riding, you may want to practice this in a straight line first

 

Keep the r's up and make sure you have down shifted into 1st at low speeds....

 

I would only add that most new riders face this to some degree. I would suggest practicing figure 8s in a parking lot. Start big, like 6 or even 8 parking spaces. Work your way down to 4 until you can get down to 2. That helped me out when I started some 25yrs ago.

Another thing- dont be afraid to over throttle a little on hills. As others mentioned, you're not likely to burn the clutch doing this. You're also not likely to accidentally wheelie on this bike.

Last thing, I opted to install the camel adv one finger clutch. While it is not worth it for some, it does widen the clutch engagement a bit. This might help with learning to feather the clutch.

Overall, you'll get used to it. At some point it will probably click and then you'll forget you ever had this problem 😇

 

I would only add that most new riders face this to some degree. I would suggest practicing figure 8s in a parking lot. Start big, like 6 or even 8 parking spaces. Work your way down to 4 until you can get down to 2. That helped me out when I started some 25yrs ago.

Another thing- dont be afraid to over throttle a little on hills. As others mentioned, you're not likely to burn the clutch doing this. You're also not likely to accidentally wheelie on this bike.

Last thing, I opted to install the camel adv one finger clutch. While it is not worth it for some, it does widen the clutch engagement a bit. This might help with learning to feather the clutch.

Overall, you'll get used to it. At some point it will probably click and then you'll forget you ever had this problem 😇

Thanks kindly. This is what I was hoping to hear.

 

OK, new bike. So the clutch switch have Not been Jumpered.

As others have already noted, you probably need to simply raise your engine speed a little higher before Easing your clutch lever out more Gradually as you Gently raise your engine speed just a little higher.

THINK SMOOTH with Both the throttle & the clutch lever movements!

And ride with a 1/4- 1/2 tank of gas rather than filling clear up until you get more experience, to reduce the top-heaviness at slow speeds.

 

OK, new bike. So the clutch switch have Not been Jumpered.

As others have already noted, you probably need to simply raise your engine speed a little higher before Easing your clutch lever out more Gradually as you Gently raise your engine speed just a little higher.

THINK SMOOTH with Both the throttle & the clutch lever movements!

And ride with a 1/4- 1/2 tank of gas rather than filling clear up until you get more experience, to reduce the top-heaviness at slow speeds.

Great advice! Thank you.

 

Good luck, practice the friction zone, lots of videos that will help understand it more.

interesting note as it’s fresh last week. My son visited and brought his bmw, he has rode it now for two years In FL so not a lot of turning where he is at. He did fine through the day and then we looped Atlanta in the afternoon traffic heading back home and he was complaining about the bike stalling in traffic and thought it was breaking. I watched him in my mirror and could see the chrome shift lever quite clearly. He often insisted he was working the clutch and his fingers weren’t even covering the lever. He traveled home 2 days later so we didn’t have enough time to really try drills but I gave him a few he could handle on flat ground.
I can’t stress enough the confidence boost that comes with controlling the bike with the clutch friction zone. If your only in a flat area I suggest an open parking lot, a throttle lock, set the rpm to 2000 unloaded and do figure 8s as slow and tight as you can. You’ll find regulating your ground speed solely with the clutch very beneficial as you get more comfortable getting tighter and tighter.
if you have some hills top of the hill, engine off, 1st gear, coast down the hill as slow as you can using only the clutch for braking. Start bike turn around, 2000 rpm and crawl up the hill as slow as possible using the clutch to maintain forward motion without stalling the bike.

 

Good luck, practice the friction zone, lots of videos that will help understand it more.

interesting note as it’s fresh last week. My son visited and brought his bmw, he has rode it now for two years In FL so not a lot of turning where he is at. He did fine through the day and then we looped Atlanta in the afternoon traffic heading back home and he was complaining about the bike stalling in traffic and thought it was breaking. I watched him in my mirror and could see the chrome shift lever quite clearly. He often insisted he was working the clutch and his fingers weren’t even covering the lever. He traveled home 2 days later so we didn’t have enough time to really try drills but I gave him a few he could handle on flat ground.
I can’t stress enough the confidence boost that comes with controlling the bike with the clutch friction zone. If your only in a flat area I suggest an open parking lot, a throttle lock, set the rpm to 2000 unloaded and do figure 8s as slow and tight as you can. You’ll find regulating your ground speed solely with the clutch very beneficial as you get more comfortable getting tighter and tighter.
if you have some hills top of the hill, engine off, 1st gear, coast down the hill as slow as you can using only the clutch for braking. Start bike turn around, 2000 rpm and crawl up the hill as slow as possible using the clutch to maintain forward motion without stalling the bike.

Thank you.

 

@CanuckOnABike

Do you have a quad or another bike available that you could ride a bit and try to get better on the clutch using the stability of 4 wheels? It may help to do alot of friction zone practice on hills and such but on a quad. That experience will transfer over to the KLR.

 

Do you have a quad

Most ATV 4 wheelers (quads) are some version of semi-automatic or full automatic clutches & transmissions these days.

That's one of the main reasons that they became Popular, unlike most motorcycles. "ANY body could ride them." But people never told those new owners that they can also Crash Them, Very Quickly!

 

I keep stalling the bike on sharp turns (right hand, mostly) and while stopped on hills. I have been doing friction zone exercises, but I keep stalling.

We live in Southwest PA and there are no level roads so stopping and starting on hills is just how it is and here's what I do.

Now, I'm assuming you don't stall out facing down hill.

So, when I roll up to a stop sign/light and I'm facing up hill, I stop with only my left foot down and my right foot is holding the bike with the rear brake. That way, I don't have to use my right hand to hold the front brake and operate the throttle at the same time when I'm pulling away. Make sense?

I should also say that as I'm nearly stopped my left leg comes off the foot peg (downshifted into first gear already) which influences the bike to the left making the whole thing almost automatic. I say "almost" because there are some road surfaces so badly rutted that I do need to put down both feet. Even then, once stopped, I put the right leg back on the rear brake lever and hold it still like normal.

Doing this I can slightly pre-load the drive train (friction zone) and pull away smoothly without drifting backwards.

You can certainly practice this on level roads or a vacant parking lot on some Sunday before getting adventurous.

Lastly, don't worry about the cars behind you because they are just a distraction.

You'll get there.

 

Thank you, Steve. The hill stops are the biggest challenge. I'll try what you suggested. Thanks!

 

I second the note about installing the one finger clutch. I have the NiceCNC version on my bike, and it works great. Easier clutch pull, wider friction zone - it's a great upgrade.

 

i put the so called 1 finger clutch on my bike and it is literally the 1 thing I installed that I regretted. If it wasn't already on I would get rid of it. It definitely NOT 1 finger operated that 1 finger claim is just not true. My bike was new and cable lubricated when I installed it. As far as friction zone I didnt see enough difference to make it worth the $$$. Save your money is my opinion

 

Interesting. Well, I guess YMMV. I noticed a significant difference when I installed it.

 

Could be that the Generations are different between our bikes. Not sure

 

I installed the Camel One Finger Clutch Lever in my KLR. I found it made the clutch a lot easier to use. It widened the friction zone.

 

I picked up a second-hand (installed and removed) Camel ADV one-finger setup for my gen 1 for half price. I didn't find it a life changer, but it did slightly widen the friction zone and slightly reduce lever effort. Worth what I paid for it, but I'm glad I found one used.

It's still not hydraulic smooth, but I don't really want to throw $250 at the Magura hydraulic clutch kit.

 

As far as clutch effort and friction zone, I see no issue with the klr. I have several hydraulic and several cable. The klr feels as good as any. Could be a mechanical issue on this one, idk. Mine isn't heavy nor particularly small friction zone. I pull mine with 2 fingers with no issue at all all day.

I have a vtx 1300 that is just almost a 2 hand clutch. Lol

 

When on a hill, give it a little gas, before letting out the clutch. As far as stalling around corners, how fast are you going? If you're going at a decent speed, just step on your rear brake to slow down a little while closing the throttle. your momentum will keep you going. when you come out from the turn, you can throttle it. If you're going really slow, make sure you're 1st or 2nd gear.

 

Hi all. I have had my KLR 650S (gen 3) for a month now. Huge difference between the training bike at MSF!

I am enjoying the bike, the challenges of being a new rider, and thrill of everytime I expand my driving area in my community.

I am, however, struggling with one area and I want to gauge how normal it is to have this struggle.

I keep stalling the bike on sharp turns (right hand, mostly) and while stopped on hills. I have been doing friction zone exercises, but I keep stalling. This has been discouraging. I have dropped the bike twice (thankfully I have Tusk bars on the bike. doing their job!) and just when I think I have got it, I stall again.

I am 5'09", 195lbs. I can place both feet down. The bike feels "top heavy" when it stalls. I am not sure what to do. Like I said, this is discouraging. Is this normal?

Any advice? Thanks!

Dont be discouraged, coming out of MSF this is perfectly normal! Just the want to learn and putting in the time to practice is huge and will get you there quicker. Before you know it you'll be out on the roads and forget about the struggles or come out of it with a few good stories. Even with many years of riding I still stall it or drop it from time to time. I too feel the KLR is particularly more top heavy than other bikes i've rode - but it is a bigger bike and no way around that other than putting less gas in during practice. But the more you ride it and get used to it the lighter it will feel.

I would not recommend modifying the clutch yet. With being a new rider I think the more you can feel it and the wider the zone the better - the one finger clutch is great for long and clutch heavy off road rides IMO but made it less clear where the friction zone was. I am one who believes that new parts "settle" and that the cable may be going through its initial stretch and making it more difficult. Check the free play and I tend to keep it on the looser side to have the friction zone be closer to the bars. (dont be afraid to ask for help about any of this if you want to do it, or make good friends with the techs near by).

What exercises are you doing? I've been watching a lot of "Dandanthefireman" on youtube who has a "S.M.A.R.T" rider course with drills that seems like a great program for all riders - something I would consider picking up especially as a new rider. The biggest piece of advice I can give is to practice off the streets as much as possible. Find a nice large open parking lot, get some cones, and spend as much time as you can until you are comfortable starting, stopping, and turning especially in "emergency" situations. When I was learning to ride I would ride in my backyard that was maybe 600sq ft. I dont know how my neighbors didnt kill me because I would do it for hours as often as I could - but I was also a kid then. But it really forced me to learn counter balance, clutch, and brake control where I felt very comfortable and confident when riding.

Specifically for slow speed maneuvers and learning to start and stop I watched a good FortNine video where it talked about holding RPM's and only using the clutch where I and many others would tend to try and modulate clutch and throttle which ends up not being as smooth. Another technique is to drag the rear brake - one that really has improved my slow speed riding and balance. If something isnt working for you, try and find someone else who explains or does it different. But no matter what, dont give up and ride on!

 

I would not recommend modifying the clutch yet. With being a new rider I think the more you can feel it and the wider the zone the better

And I'll suggest that you just contradicted yourself.
The aftermarket lower lever purposely Widens the disengagement / re-engagement Zone and lightens the hand lever pull a bit.
Which makes it a little easier for a novice to control, because it is not quite so abrupt in action between fully disengaged & fully re-engaged.

 

Do this:
-Sit on the bike, drop it into 1st.
-With no throttle, slowly release the clutch until the bike barely starts to inch forward.
-Pull the clutch back in and let the bike rock backwards to the starting point.
-Repeat ad nauseum.

This is how my MSF instructor tought the class how to find the friction point of the clutch. Worked great for a bunch of people who had never touched a bike, or a clutch.

I also don't understand how a softer, wider engagement zone results in an abrupt start, but I've been driving manuals (60's vintage, at that) in one form or another since I was 16.
I didn't have a big problem with the stock clutch engagement on my gen 1. The engagement zone was short, but workable.
After the Camel ADV mod, the engagement zone is slightly wider and slightly softer, which makes feathering the clutch slightly easier, but it took me all of 30 seconds to adapt.

Getting the cable/lever adjusted properly is half the battle. If the friction zone isn't in a comfortable portion of the lever travel range, you're going to have a harder time working the clutch.
I try to leave about 3/4" of slack at the end of travel, and at least an inch at the bar end of travel. If I have more to free play work with, I bias the friction zone away from the bar rather than towards it. You don't have a lot of control in that region 1" away from the bar. You have a lot more fine motor control with the lever at the end of travel, where you're only using your first and second knuckles.

 

Not much to add, other have covered it well.
Practice, yep.

Its a COMBO thing...clutch and throttle.
At some point, as someone mentioned..it will "click".

Once you get the "feel" between throttle and clutch relationship, you will soon forget the issue and won't have it anymore.
That comes from MORE riding.

Someone mentioned not to worry about what is behind you.
I have to respectfully disagree....be aware of what is coming up behind you when stopped.
Hopefully you have an emergency escape route planned, bike is in gear (clutch in), foot on rear brake and ready to roll.
For sure that is NOT the time to stall out...seriously, it will become "second nature" and the more you ride and get the "feel" it will be second nature..you won't even think about it consciously...and perhaps now..you are hyper focused on stalling / tipping.

Stay safe have fun

 

To the OP's point the(all years) klr clutch does a more abrupt engagement. If the girls don't find you attractive but you're handy two farkles will fix it and make it more like other bikes. Get a set of Barnett clutch springs from Eagle Mike and get the clutch arm extender mod. Both combined slow down the engagement of the clutch and make it more positive.

 

Anytime you take off from a full stop you are slipping the clutch a bit, but I always try to slip it as little as possible and still be smooth, this usually results in a bit of a rapid start, but I am taking about 0-7 mph so that I am all in or all out with the clutch, I do very little to no actual slipping. (off pavement riding, steep scents and steep uphill starts are different). I am assuming you dont live in a hilly city like San Francisco. If you are doing U-turns or sharp city turns at low speed and you pull the clutch in the middle of a turn you might fall over, if you go to slow and you might stall and then fall over and that sound like this is whats happening to you. Centrifical force is your friend on a motorcycle, its what keeps you from falling over when you lean over but if you dont have enough speed it wont work and when you dont have it you get that top heavy feel your talking about. Obviously going too fast isnt good either, it's a balance. Also very slow corners require being in first gear. Maybe ride with someone who is a competent rider and play follow the leader a bit? You are probably just going to slow through the corners, turning up the idle a bit is normally pretty easy but like others have said you need the clutch safety by pass, my gen 3 was like that when I got it and I have had no complaitns.

I am not sure this is a good idea, muddying the waters and all, but there is a YouTube guy who post videos from the Stelvio pass in Italy and a lot of guys go into corner to slow, in neutral, or in a high gear or maybe with the clutch in and because it is a steep slow corner they tip over. The top heavy feel is very much intensified if you are on a slope and you stop and then lean into the corner to put a foot down instead always put the foot down away from the slope. I think this is basically the same problem you are having but the steepness intensifies. He has a bunch of other videos but this one show a bunch of tip over sin a very short time. We are watching this to LEARN, not to chuckle at people tipping over!

Also my Moto Guzzi is called a Stelvio after this pass and it is on my bucket list!

 

The KLR takes a while to get used to just because it is so top-heavy. Coming from riding scooters (which have a very low COG), it took me a couple months to get used to making sharp turns on the KLR. The first time I had to make a u-turn, I almost dumped it in the middle of the intersection.

Even now, when I go and ride dirt after a couple months of not doing anything but freeway commutes, it takes me an hour or so to warm up and find that balance and confidence again.
I'm probably going to go kick around in the dirt this weekend just to knock the rust off.

Get those reps in. The more you ride, the more comfortable you'll get with the bike.

 

Thanks, Tad.

 

I highly recommend the Camel ADV " One Finger Clutch" upgrade and a two finger clutch lever. Those changes widen the friction zone and make clutch control so much better. It was a game changer for me.
If I had to buy another KLR and make upgrades to it, those two things would be first, maybe even before a real skidplate.

 

x2. That’s been one of my favorite mods as well!

 

I had the same problem and was more of a road rider in the recent past than dirt. Now I live part time in rim/mountain country and when I ride on the forest roads (not so bad) and then take another side road that is a little rougher, I stalled it a lot. So I went one tooth smaller on the front. Still ridable the 90 miles back to city, just rev's a little higher. The KLR for me is a little big for the mountains in my area. And I love the bike for down the mountain and back up again. Keeps up with traffic very well and actually love riding this bike as much as my Harley sporty before this. There are always trade off's. One tooth less on the front helped me. Is it the perfect bike, no. It's just one good versatile bike that doesn't break the bank.

 

One tooth less on the front helped me. Is it the perfect bike, no. It's just one good versatile bike that doesn't break the bank.

The One Tooth smaller front drive sprocket is certainly a Very Good Idea for a Learning Rider, to slow the road speed down just a little bit more in 1st gear and enhance the torque at near idle rpms to help reduce stalling when the clutch is released a little too quickly & the throttle not turned quite quick-enough.

Why didn't the rest of us think of that? I recon that we were being "KLR thrifty", by not spending his money.