If its working good, the only thing i would do is flush the brake system .

 

Sound advice -I will do that over the Crazy Christmas period... can't really do too much of that kind of maintenance on these old girls - my 2008 is 15 years old now...at least KLR wheel bearings are lightyears better than BMW GS 800s...

 

Get a new set of seals for the MC and have them as a cheap insurance that they will never be needed ...

 

Get a new set of seals for the MC and have them as a cheap insurance that they will never be needed ...

so true..I have a lot of spares like that...new cam chain and guides for my Honda XR 200 (which I will probably need in 2032) and others - brake calliper rebuild kits, OEM petcock rebuild kit etc....I sleep better knowing they are in my tupperware container...

 

The manual calls for an overhaul every 4 years. It is really necessary.
After an overhaul you'll quickly realise the brakes weren't working as good as you thought.

 

Thanks! Any further details on what a master cylinder overhaul involves would be hugely appreciated - I just put a new rotor and brake pads on the front and the front brake is still shit - maybe that is due to the master cylinder?...got me thinking...and thats usually dangerous! (I don't have the manual)

 

Did you overhaul the caliper ? The pistons are probably stuck.

 

Yes I did. That has become a yearly job where I live. So I am getting pretty good at it. Gosh it would be a nightmare getting the pistons out without damaging them without this little gem;

 

Thanks to all who replied with advice - especially Belldriver who advised that the KLR manual recommends master cylinder overhaul every 4 years - I am going to order the parts for both front and rear masters from RockyMTV today. Have a great Chrissy break!

 

If you put on new disc and pads they need some miles to seat to each other. Only then will you have the "full deceleration" of the OEM brake. The MC will not really effect this other than possibly requiring more force unless its that worn that it will not hold pressure if you pull on it hard and hold on.
Often helps some to lube the lever pivot (is it bone dry?) and the contact between the lever and the MC piston. But again this will just reduce friction and thus reduce the force necessary to pull the lever.